Botany Buddy

Alright, I admit that I am a sap for cheesy music (as well as the good stuff) and I have a weakness for great song writers.  Writing a great song is so similar to designing a great garden that I just can’t help it. Today it’s Billy Joel.  I have been writing in app speak for about a week straight without blogging, and breaking out the Greatest Hits was a sure fire way to get me back to my native tongue.  Don’t get me wrong.  I love the challenge of trying to hone together information into perfectly worded phrases designed to interact with on another on a technical level.  Writing an interactive book is actually great because it reigns in my run on sentences and teaches me to speak without analogies and innuendos.   However, is it me trying to change myself to try and please you…or is it me?  I think as long as I continue to be myself that I will come through in the end.  That is the key to writing a great song.  Finding the best in all of us, learning to bring it out and bring us together with the most efficient use of words, patterns, rhythm, is at the heart of music, writing, gardening and all the arts.

One of the key things I have learned to do in all of this is not change me and to be myself.  I learned a long time ago as a designer that when I did my best work, I let myself come out and tried to blend it with the essence of my clients and the space we were working in.  The same is true with plants.  Plants do their best for us when we put them where they want to be, not where we can make them do what we want.  As gardeners, too often we ask this of our plants and our spaces only to change ourselves too in the end.  By butchering them and controlling them to the point that they are no longer who they want to be (people, places, or plants) they cease to be the things we love and become all to unfamiliar.

So while we sit and reflect this winter and lust over catalogs to find the perfect plants for the prefect spots, let’s remember that the perfect plant is the one that can be who it wants to be and bring out the essence of the space and ourselves in the process.   If we do this we will get the gardens we want because those spaces, our needs, and the needs of the plants that will live there will bring us the diversity we crave.  If we don’t we will just ruin all the things we love about each other and our love of gardening.

We’ve all been in that bad relationship, and as designers in our desire to create and be something different we can make the greatest mistake of all  “She’ll promise you more than the garden of Eden.  Then she’ll carelessly cut you and laugh while your bleeding but she’ll bring out the best and the worst you can be.  Blame it all on yourself cause she’s always a woman to me.” Sound like something we’ve all done to a shrub or two.  How often have we done this?   When will we learn that our plants, clients, spaces and selves are what and WHO they are.  Only when we learn to respect that and learn that we have to live together will we achieve that love we long for one another.    If we don’t we will just ruin all the things we love about each other and love of gardening.  So when we think of ourselves as gardeners let’s think of ourselves as cheesy songwriters.

“So don’t go changing to try and please me.  You never let me down before…Don’t imagine your too familiar and I don’t see you anymore…I would not leave you in times of trouble.  We never could have come this far…I took the good times.  I’ll take the bad times.  I’ll take you just the way you are.”

When I started this post it was going to be an all out attack on Lawn&Landscape Magazine.  Over the past several months they have taken a corporate political stance that has ceased to be an educational service to their industry and turned into an all out chemical and economic attack on garden consumers and professionals.  Their publication has obviously become an effort to carry water for the equipment,  chemical and insurance industries that pay for all their advertising and write their content.  It has ceased to be an educational service to the industry.

The article that finally pushed me over the edge wasn’t the one last month on how limiting turf use to 4000 sf per yard was an attack on our ideals, or the one the month before on how landscape employees that are constantly exposed to chemicals and physical danger don’t deserve health care.  Instead it was this month’s on how the industry was being attacked because municipalities in Canada where restricting chemical use in residential and environmentally sensitive areas.  Their fear was that the socialist tendencies of these Canadians might drift south like a cloud of RoundUp and make us little salamanders in the states start caring about the future of our children and water supply.  The full article is here…water bucket and all:  Best Defense

As most of you who read me know, I have spent my entire career in the landscape design build business.  One of the things that has made this business great is that as long as I can remember is that nurserymen, landscapers, and gardeners are typically true tradesmen who learn, love and teach their crafts.  They are not just tradesmen, but true craftsmen.  Probably the most notable reason this industry has been able to grow as fast as the customers isn’t just the demand that has paid for it, but also the numerous organizations, associations, and schools that have collaborated and been a part of that education.  The main goal of all these groups is the advancement of the industry by networking and educating.  For the most part all the various state associations, the ANLA, and various other groups make this their calling.  These groups also have one other thing in common, they are all in the business of growing, and understand that to do it successfully you can never stop learning.  They also know that the most important part of learning is listening to their industry, and their consumers.

(This is where I originally paused to figure out how to handle this tactfully)  then…

This morning I woke up to this wonderful post from Garden Rant: “A Chemical Reaction” Makes the Case.  It chronicles the grassroots efforts of the Canadian people to protect their children and resources, and the woman who made it her life’s cause.  This is a wonderfully positive take on what happens when industry and government listen to the needs of their customers and in the end grow together for the benefit of both.  What happened in Canada is a case of consumers driving change and an industry growing to meet demand in trying times rather than screaming that they are under attack.  This is an example of what our industry has always been about when it is at it’s best.

Lawn & Landscape Magazine used to be dedicated to advancing and teaching a growing industry but has gradually become increasingly consumed with maintaining the status quo.  Now obviously for them the status quo is the never ending supply of equipment and chemical vendors who cover %70 of their publication with adds.  However, for the people in this business the future isn’t in buying up their vendor’s over saturated, unwanted, and unaffordable inventories, it is in learning their changing market’s needs and desires and adapting their businesses to them.  In short they need to learn, and education requires two things; listening and thinking.  Both of these Lawn & Landscape  has been too busy screaming how we are under attack to do.

Before I started Botany Buddy I had to go through some serious reconciliation.  I was giving up 25 years of designing landscapes usually for the sake of prestige and money.  It wasn’t necessarily desired by me, but by my clients who at least wanted to portray that image.  I was just paying for my gardening habit and overdosing on it with their money.  It was a viscous cycle, and for twenty years I watched the industry make the same mistakes as the clients.  Firms became more concerned about the appearance of the trucks and mowers than if the equipment best met the needs of their clients.  In the end, we even pushed this image to our clients, by focusing on the resale value of our product rather than how it made their lives or environment better.

Well as the false economy that paid for these false ideals has crumbled, a return to the values that started this industry are coming back.  In the last five to ten years sustainable landscaping has come into focus.  Everyday people are making decisions based upon their environments and lifestyles, and finding the essence in both rather than trying to create an image of a place that doesn’t exist.  Lawn & Landscape surely isn’t going to listen to little old Botany Buddy, and I’m sure after this Monsanto won’t let them promote my little $10 app.   That’s O.K., I didn’t get into this for them, I did it to return to my roots as a gardener, out of a love of the world around me, and to hopefully find a new way forward.  We may not be able to change the giant of industry, but maybe if all of us gardeners rant a little more, we can “uproot the gardening world” like the women of Garden Rant and change the world around them.

What happens when you combine politics, various county governments, Academe and community organizing?  Usually not much.  Having been been raised in Academe and involved in plenty of politics, when I first heard of a BYGL I definitely had my preconceived notions.  In fact the first image that came to my mind was the Spoofhound.  That was the name of my high school mascot. Rumor had it in the early days our football team was so inept at coming together and working as a team that the coach said they all looked like a bunch of  Spoofhounds.  The name has stuck as long as anyone can remember.  Of course when the teams are good everyone tries to change their name to “The Hounds”.  However being a dog lover I have always been fond of the name Spoofhound.  I couldn’t have been more proud of that name when they recently gained national notoriety for an act of selflessness that became a network and Internet sensation and showed how greatness can be reached when unlikely partners come together to do something good. (story)

When I first heard of  ”The Bygles” (at least that is what I call them), I have to admit I imagined somewhat of a Spoofhound effort in the purest sense of the name.  After all how could so many competing entities possibly come together to beat the odds for the benefit of everyone.  Anyone who has worked in horticulture or been a gardener knows that when you are working one on one with an extension agent it can be a wonderful experience.  However, if you knew what it requires to allow that to happen you would be surprised you had the chance to meet with an agent at all.  Typically University Extension Services are are funded by a combination of federal, state, and local or county funds.  Most are also usually torn between a university system and local governments.  This makes it really easy for someone be turned into a research assistant or someone who has to do the biddings of a politician trying to seek reelection.  Yet somehow through personal care and a love of their jobs by individual agents those of us on the receiving end are rarely aware of this paradox.  These agents are friends, educators, and ambassadors between the farmer in the field or the gardener in their yard and many different figments in ivory tours that hold the fate their existence in a very fragile web of funding and interests.

Somehow in the story of  ”The Bygles” all of these odds are overcome to create an effort more worthy of the name Superdog than a Spoofhound.  BYGL is a statewide newsletter put out weekly through the growing season by The Ohio State University Extension Service.  This seems like no big deal.  All of our local agents put out at least monthly newsletters, or at least most do.  However this one is different.  Every week during the growing season agents from every county in the state come together via conference call to discuss not only what is happening in their districts, but how diseases, insects, and trends are acting across the entire state and their region of the country as a whole.

For one day every week these people bring all of their local perspectives but put aside their local agendas to see how they can address these problems as a state and on a statewide level.  After the meeting everything is compiled into one document and not only faxed out to all of their various members and users, but also put together online where the report can be accessed.  Not only can the report be accessed, but through the effort of some dedicated agents and university staff, wonderful photos are taken and information is gathered to tell the story as it needs to be addressed today and not just recycled from some old files.  Not only that, they reach outside of their own circle to other agencies and resources, and all the appropriate links and references are included so people can quickly find what they need.  As a result they are able to address problems and needs for the entire state as an ecosystem rather than one county at a time, and over come all the bureaucratic odds.

As gardeners our biggest challenge is learning the ecosystems we work in and learning how to help the plants and animals in them to work together for the good of the entire garden.  Gardening can be challenging, but working across all the various bureaucratic boundaries, and hierarchies to pull this off has to be harder.  One of  ”The Bygles” likes to say “Information is not Education”  As someone with a philosophy degree, I have to agree.  Having managed lands in many states and across state and county lines, I have become familiar with many extension services and their resources.  They are loaded with information and are extremely valuable resources, but BYGL is definitely designed for education, not just to disperse information.

The last BYGL was just published for the season until next spring, but I highly recommend you check this site out.  I would be proud to call this dog a Spoofhound in the greatest sense.  *Note: when you go to this page the links to older newsletters are at the bottom.  The links at the top are under construction as they are archiving this years content.

When people ask me how to water their plants I usually turn right around ask them for instructions on how to raise kids.  The point being you can’t know what to do for a plant until you get to know it like a person.  Raising plants is a lot like raising kids, and once you learn what works best for both of you the better off you both will be.  Too often people think that plants are like hardwood floors, that they need to be waxed at certain intervals, need to be kept perfectly clean, and that given the perfect routine treatment will always look shiny and new and age perfectly.  What they need to learn is that plants are like people and they need nourishment, security, and love; sometimes even tough love.

The overall goal of watering should always be to help plants get established quickly, and develop a healthy deep seated root system to deal with the trials and tribulations that lie ahead.  While you want to be diligent at giving your plants what they need to get established, you also want them to start to take less and less care from you.  If you have the right plant in the right spot, they should eventually be able to care of themselves.  That journey begins with security.  The best security a plant can have is not knowing that you will run out and water it at the drop of a leaf, but rather that it has plenty of water in the soil around it, not just in the hole that you put it in.

During the average growing season, most established plants can use no more than one inch of water per week.  To be able to stick to this you need to make sure that all of the soil in and around the planting area has a deep base of adequate moisture.  If it does, as the soil dries out immediately around a newly planted plant moisture will move from the surrounding soil to the soil in the hole through osmosis.  If you plant a plant into to an area where all of the surrounding soil is dry, when you water all of the moisture will move the other way and you won’t be able to retain moisture around the plant.  Whenever you are going to be planting an area, you should always water the entire area thoroughly.  Think of it as getting the nursery ready for that newborn you are about to bring home.  In the end it save you several trips to the store (or in this case hose).

The key to establishing healthy plants is the same as for kids.  You want to love them, but you don’t want to spoil them. Plants that are watered too frequently will not achieve the necessary root growth they need.  Instead, they will develop a shallow root system that you have to constantly water, and the roots will never get out on their own.  Nature very rarely waters more than once a week and manages to sustain itself and withstand times of extreme stress.  Even in those times of extreme stress nature will usually adapt and turn out stronger in the long run.  By having thoroughly watered soil, not only will moisture move toward the plant as it is needed, but the roots will move out to it in search of what they need. Watering too frequent and not deep enough will train the roots never to leave home.  Beyond just water needs deep watering will also help retain the nutrients in the soil by not washing them out of the soil because watering all of the time.

Anyone who knows what it is like to love a child should be well prepared to give a plant the love it needs.  Just like you want to make sure your child has everything they need to succeed in life you want to do the same for your plants.  The worst thing you can do for either of you is constantly react to circumstances.  In the end sometimes plants and children both need a little tough love.  Even if your plants have everything they need in the subsoil on the hottest of days they are going to wilt.  The last thing you want to do is run out there an water them.  That wilting action is triggering an natural response from the plant to dig in and grow the roots they need.  As long as that soil has the water the plant needs it will find a way to get it.  Just like your kids sometimes need to work through things, your plants need to do the same.

For those who need a little more specific information, these guidelines should help you be sure your plants to get established and encourage the  root growth they eventually need to make it without you.

Whenever installing a new plant be sure and water all of the soil around the hole. It is imperative that the root mass of new plants always be kept moist, as well as the soil around the holes they are in until active root growth begins. Adequate moisture needs to be maintained until the roots actually leave the hole that was dug for installation and penetrate the surrounding soil.  The best way to accomplish this is to actually water the hole you dug for the plant before you put it in it.   Actually fill the hole you have dug for the plant entirely with water and let it seep into the surrounding soil.  You will want to do this repeatedly until water begins to hold in the hole or seep out very slowly.  When you are planting the plant, water the plant while it is still in the container or burlap before putting it in the hole.  It is much easier to make sure it is moist before it is underground and covered with soil.  Once the water you put in the hole has drained, place the plant at the proper level,  and back fill the hole with soil halfway up around the root ball.   Once you have lightly packed the soil to hold the plant in place, fill the rest of the hole with water again.  Be sure and let the water soak completely in before back filling it the rest of the way.  Not only will this ensure the soil is wet, it will also remove any air pockets in the hole that could later cause roots to dry out or the plant to settle and lean.  Once you have finished filling the hole with soil, water it one more time.  The most common shortcut you will see a professional landscaper make is not following this entire process.  After 25 years in the landscaping business I would not be exaggerating if I said that 80% of the times that plants needed replaced or replanted it was because the installer skipped these simple steps and it wasn’t properly watered during planting.

Watering new plants after planting may be required more than once in the first week.  You should check daily to see if the plant needs water, but don’t water daily.  Stick your finger into the root mass of the plant as well as the soil around it and see if they are both wet.  If you find the soil is dry give it a little water.  If it is wet whatever you do don’t water even if the plant is wilting or showing signs of stress.  The only thing that will help it is growing the roots it needs to make it on its own.  Watering when it is not needed will actually prevent this.  You may have to water new plants a couple times a week in the first two weeks as the stress of planting can cause them to use more water, but ideally by the third week you should never have to water more than once a week.

Watering of established plants should not be needed (or performed) more than once per week, and combined with what nature gives they should not need more than the equivalence of 1 inch of precipitation per week.  If your soil is adequately moist beneath the  surface and all you need to do is supplement that top inch.  Watering too frequently will only keep the plant’s roots from reaching out for the moisture that is there.  In reality if you are using native species in a place with the proper light exposure, and in the right zone in terms of hardiness range, you shouldn’t have to water a plant at all after the first season.  In times of extreme drought you may want to water established plants, but good winter watering (the step below) should prevent the need for any sort of frequent watering.

Winter Watering isn’t something people usually think about.  However a plant has more of a chance of dying in winter from a lack of water than it does in summer.  The water that fills the tissue of a plant’s trunk and branches is actually what protects it from extreme freezing temperatures.  When matter freezes it expands.  When the cells of a plant expand, the gases inside can expand more than the tissue itself and cause the cells to explode.  If the cells are filled with water it displaces those gases and keeps them from expanding too far.  If a plant freezes when it is dry, it can literally freeze-dry the plant, making it impossible for the cells to retain water again.  The best way to prevent this is to actually water in the fall or early winter before the ground freezes.

Once the leaves and perennials are down for the season and you have chopped them up for mulch, it is actually the easiest and most efficient time of year to get water in the soil.  The water doesn’t roll off the foliage of the plants and lands directly where it needs to go.  It also is less likely to evaporate when using a sprinkler because the temperatures are lower.  Best of all the plant isn’t using it to grow (other than roots), so even in winter a good saturation can last a couple of months.  If you happen to get a warm spell in January or February, I actually recommend watering deeply a a couple of times over winter to establish that deep ground moisture before spring arrives.  It is much easier to do it in January than in the spring or summer than when the water is actively being used by the plants and foliage is emerging that deflects it.

Wilting and watering do not always go hand in hand.  I alluded to this earlier.  When a plant wilts, not only does it reduce transpiration, it is a natural reaction to reduce the amount of energy going to the leaves, and to divert it to other activities such as blooming, fruit production or root growth.  All of those are crucial to the survival of the species, and the plant will instinctively focus on those things when it senses stress.  Wilting is also a natural response in extreme hot and cold temperatures to reduce the amount of wind or light reaching the foliage to prevent desiccation.  More often than not, wilting is sign of healthy developmental activity in stressful situations.  If a plant wilts and is wet do not water it, the plant is just doing what it needs to grow the roots to succeed in life.  Think of it as tough love.

Stunted and shedding leaves can be indications of both positive and negative conditions other than moisture issues.  In the first months and even years after planting, leaves may shed or remain stunted and small to offset the lack of roots lost during transplanting.  Usually after several months or even a year, the same branches with stunted leaves suddenly show what seem like over-sized leaves, often three or four times the size of others. This is an indication that the roots are finally leaving the planting pit, and the plant is beginning to get established.  Burnt edges on deciduous foliage may be the result of a fungus rather than drought, which water will only exasperate.  When evergreens yellow and drop needles in the fall it is often a result of alkaline soil, and they are trying to acidify their own soil.  Watering them if wet will only cause root rot.  Just because you see these things happen it does not mean a plant needs water.  If you see these symptoms and the soil is moist you may need to dig a little deeper to find our what’s wrong.  We’ll have another post about how to do that digging later.

The main thing to remember when watering is the more frequent and less deep you water the more often you will have to water.  The sooner you learn what your plants really the need, the less you will have to give them, and the less they will eventually need. To some extent, your plants can be taught to live with your schedule, and the sooner you teach them to the better off you both will be.  Think of that deep watering you give your plants a couple times this winter as that Sunday afternoon pot roast or chicken and dumplings you make for your family on a cold winter day.  It will keep their little cells warm on those cold winter days, and help built the muscles they need get through the summer ahead.  It is also like the hearty soup that allows them to pull in all those nutrients from the soil below to fight off disease and stress.  Think of watering you plants as caring for someone you love…and they’ll be sure and love you back.  Plants are like people, so don’t treat them like a hardwood floor.

Get to the root of the issues!

There are two main things to consider when choosing a plant to purchase. First, choosing the right plant for the right spot, and second selecting a quality plant to buy. As for choosing the right plant for the spot, there’s an app for that!  Botany Buddy’s tree and shrub finder was designed specifically for this purpose. As for choosing a quality plant to purchase, this post for that.

Trees and shrubs come packaged for sale in three main forms: containerized, balled and burlapped and bare root.  The best of these to buy will depend on what you are using them for. Containerized trees and shrubs are ideal for planting in prepared beds, individual holes in the ground, or in pots. Balled and burlapped plants are best when planting in beds, or individual holes in the grounds, but do not do as well in containers.  Bare root plants do best in pots or directly in unprepared ground. Larger bare root plants (shrubs over 6″ tall or trees over 12″ tall) perform best if planted in pots in the spring and allowed to root out before planting into the ground later in the season.

There are several factors to look at when choosing a plant to purchase depending on the packaging.

1.) Bare root plants can never be allowed to have the roots dry out. Healthy bare root plants will have small white fibrous roots it they have been properly cared for. If they have dried out they may be brown but still be viable. This can be determined by scratching the root to see if it is green or white underneath. If it is, pruning them back by 20% and immediatelysoaking them in water and root stimulator (Vitamin B1) can cause the roots to sprout new growth. If the roots are dry and brittle or soft and smooshy don’t buy the plant.  The roots are probablydead.

It is also important that bare root plants have an equal or greater amount of root growth than plant growth.  Pruning back the top can solve this but it not done correctly may hurt the plant’s eventual shape and removes valuable nutrients stored in the bark that can be used for establishment.

2.) Container plants should never be allowed to dry out. Whenever purchasing a containerized plant, remove the pot and inspect the roots. The rules on healthy roots are the same as for bare roots. If the plants have small white fibrous roots they have been properly cared for. If they have dried out they may be brown but still be viable. Just scratch the root to see if it is green or white underneath.  If it is, score the roots and rough up the ball when planting.  With immediate watering they can be caused to resprout.  However it typically takes an entire growing season for the roots to get back to a really healthy state.  This can greatly affect survival and slow down growth.  The energy stored in the branches of a plant can keep it look completely healthy for an entire season even if the root system is dead.  This is why you should always inspect the roots.

There are also signs to look for that you should completely avoid. Some plants may have been left in a pot so long that the roots will have girdled themselves. They will have circled around the pot so many times that they are strangling themselves and will eventually cut off their own circulation.  Another symptom of being in a pot too long is that the plant may have used all the soil in the the pot and be nothing but a mass of roots.  They can still be kept alive in the pot with daily watering and regular fertilizing, but once planted it creates an air pocket that eventually causes the plant to dry and freeze out over winter.  If the pot is big but fells surprisingly light, or blows over in the nursery with just the slightest breeze this is probably the case.  This makes them easy to spot from a distance.  These roots are a little tight, but healthy!

Finally, the plant needs to have enough root mass to support the plant. A plant should have ten inches diameter of pot for every 12” of height on top. On trees, they should have 20” diameter of root for the first caliper inch of truck, and 10” for every inch of trunk after. If an evergreen is grown in a pot, the width of the foliage and branches should not be more than 50% wider than the width of the pot. It is acceptable for a plant to have been pruned back to stay in a pot and can be benefitial to the long term habit of the plant, as long as the roots have not out grown the pot.

3.) Balling and burlapping plants is typically reserved for very large shrubs, over 24” in evergreens and 36” in deciduous plants, or for trees. Very rarely are plants bug by hand in the field due to labor costs.  As mechanical digging has grown in popularity, so have the problems associated with it.  As a result it is recommended that if all possible you hire the person selling the plant to install it with a warranty on both the plant and the labor.  I would never buy balled and burlapped material from a mass retailer that doesn’t specialize in plants.

Healthy balled and burlapped plants will have been dug when the soil is moist but not soggy. They are typically grown in soil with a little clay to help hold the ball together, and will be wrapped in natural fiber and bound with biodegradable twine. Balled and Burlapped plants should always be shipped within 24 hours of being dug and immediately covered in mulch or gravel, and watered upon receiving. The roots or outer edge of soil should never be allowed to dry out. Once they have, it can take over a year for active root growth to resume. Any time roots can be seen emerging from the burlap into the surrounding mulch you can be assured the root system is healthy and has been well cared for.

These balls are actually a little small.

There are a few things to always look out for when selecting a balled and burlapped plant. Never buy a plant that has a mushy or crumbly ball.  Most likely the roots have been broken apart. Balls that are dry and hard with no sign of new root growth emerging from the fabric are probably not viable no matter how good the top looks. When the ball is lifted from the ground, if the bottom falls out or the burlap sags like a wet diaper, the plant has been sitting in water for a prolonged period of time and the bottom has rotted out.  At the top of the ball there should be a string encircling the trunk of the tree or base of the shrub. If this sting has cut into the bark, or the bark has grown around it, the plant has probably been girdled and will most likely suffer or die. Finally, many nurseries will rewrap the ball with fresh burlap if a plant has set on the lot too long. If the plant looks like it has been on the lot awhile, but the ball does not, don’t be afraid to look under the burlap to see what is underneath.

Sizing the root mass compared to the top.

There are a few standards that should be met regarding the size of the ball. The size of the ball needs to be proportionate to the top of the plant depending on what type of plant it is. Also when selecting a tree, it is best if the ball is large enough to support the top without need for staking.  Some good standard ratios for ball size are detailed below.  These numbers are based upon ANLA standards, and adjusted for the reality of current digging equipment and techniques.  The are also chosen to make sure you get the best stock, not the minimum standard.

Coniferous and Evergreen Trees 18″ of ball for the 1st 3′ of height and 10” of ball for each additional 1′ of height.

Coniferous or Evergreen Shrubs 10” of ball for the 1st 1′ of width, and 6” of ball for each additional 1′ of width.

Deciduous Trees 18” of ball for the 1st caliper inch of trunk and 10” of ball for each additional caliper inch of trunk.

Deciduous Shrubs 12” of ball for the 1st 1′ of height and 12” of ball for each additional 1′ of height.

Broadleaf Evergreen Trees 18” of ball for the 1st caliper inch of trunk and 10” of ball for each additional caliper inch of trunk.

Broadleaf Evergreen Shrubs 12” of ball for the 1st caliper inch of trunk and 6″ of ball for each additional foot of height.

Balled and burlapped plants are always best handled by experienced gardeners or professionals.

There are many more things to take into consideration when selecting plants such as the branching structure, disease, the shape, and variety, but the most important thing to the health of the plant is the roots.  We will bring you more on pruning and shape later, but when buying at tree or shrub they almost all have pruning issues.  Mainly becasue the are being pruned to grow roots, fit in a retail space, and sell…not Grow!  That topic needs its own post. 

As for disease and insects, those are common as well in nurseries.  However, on deciduous trees, as long as the damage is limited to leaves it won’t matter.  They will fall off in the fall, and you really don’t want much growth in the first year.  So if the plant has a nice shape and is green some spots on the leaves won’t hurt.  As for evergreens, if it has an orangish or brown cast avoid it.  There are probably mites in there!  Evergreens with a determinate growth rate cannot grow from old wood if it the loose branches, so be sure the plant is healthy.  However, if nurseries killed everything that got on their plants they would probably killing you too. So if you see a tree that doesn’t have scarred up bark, and broken branches everywhere, but has a few spots on the leaves, as long as it has the root system and has been handled as described above you should be successful.     

The bottom line is if you want to be successful you have to dig a little deeper and get to the root of things.  As long as you water a plant well and keep it wet until you get it in the ground you should be succesful if you start with a healthy plant.  Have you ever wondered why retailers guarantee plants?  It is because they know if you get it home, it has a better chance of  surviving than if it stays with them. 

Next Weeks Blogs…Planting and Watering: Learn how to keep things alive and make them thrive! 

There are many different factors that go into determining the best time to plant something. The most important factor is having the time you need to give a newly planted plant the attention it needs, particularly when it comes to water. Some other factors include the variety of plant, the packaging, and availability. Most trees and shrubs perform best when planted in the fall. This gives them all winter to grow roots before they have to bloom, leaf out, and grow in the spring. There are downsides of this.  When plant is dormant, it can be difficult to determine how healthy the plant is.  There are other factors as well that will be explored throughout this article.  Most often the timing will be determined by the plants commercial availability.

Below are some key factors and considerations related to season, type and packaging that will help you plan the best time to purchase and plant your trees and shrubs.

Bare Root Plants

Bare root plants are typically packaged and shipped in late fall, winter or very early spring, since they prefer to be packaged when they are completely dormant. Very few nurseries will sell them, so they are typically sold via mail order or given out by conservation agencies, and most suppliers will not ship them unless the timing is right. They should be planted into pots or the ground immediately upon arrival.

Spring Flowering Trees and Shrubs

Spring flowering trees and shrubs bloom on old wood, and the buds of their blooms are set on the branches in the summer or fall before. Typically the best selection of these is in the spring.  The demand is highest and people want them because they see them blooming in the landscape. This is actually the worst time to plant them, as they have to finish blooming, leafing out, and immediately start growing.  When you plant them you disrupt the root system and make all of those tasks even harder. With less roots, it is harder for the plant to draw the nutrients and moisture they need to do all of those things as well as to combat disease and insects during the summer.

The best time to plant spring flowering trees and shrubs is late summer and early fall right as the temperatures begin to drop, or right after they finish blooming in the spring and fully leaf out.  In late spring you can see those that didn’t make it through the winter and they still have time to get some roots before the heat of summer sets in. These are both great planting times while the leaves can still photosynthesize and help produce the energy needed for rooting. They are also times when the plants aren’t struggling to keep up with the water needs of summer, or trying to battle the cold of winter.

If planting spring flowering trees and shrubs in late fall and winter, they may abort next year’s flowers and smaller limbs if temperatures get too cold.  Plants need water to protect them from freezing and thawing.  Without out an adequate root system they can’t draw the moisture to protect them. If they go into summer without an adequate root system they will drop leaves, and some of the smaller branches until the ratio of branches to roots balances out.

For balled and burlapped plants, the best time for them to be dug is when they are dormant, so selection will be limited the later in the summer you get.  However, the best time to plant them is once they have leafed out, but before the heat of summer hits.  Though selection may be a little slimmer the later it is, the chances of selecting a healthy plant are greatly increased.  Waiting allows you to see which ones have actually survived the shock of the digging process. If you miss the perfect window, you should feel safe planting any balled and burlapped plant at anytime if you can see a healthy root system emerging from the burlap. As long as you have the time to water and pamper it, the plant will be happy to have been moved from the storage medium into the ground. It may shed some leaves in the process, but should be alright.

For containerized plants, timing for selection and availability is less critical, as they can be shipped and found throughout the year. However, containers usually are stored above ground and have to be watered daily.  The later in the season it gets the more root bound they can become and the more frequent watering they will need to get established.

Summer and Fall Flowering Trees and Shrubs

Summer flowering trees and shrubs bloom on new growth that is set after the initial leaf out in the spring. Typically the best selection of these is late spring and summer. Often nurseries will wait to bring in containerized specimens until later in the season.  This leaves them the space they need in the spring for plants that are blooming and will sell better at that time. They also take longer to root, and if potted that spring may not be ready to ship until a little later. When they are blooming is actually the worst time for the plant to be planted.  It needs all of its energy to finish blooming and battle the heat of summer.  Of course when you plant it you will disrupt the root system right when it nees it most. This makes it harder for the plant to draw the nutrients and moisture they need from the soil.

The best time to plant summer flowering trees and shrubs is either late summer right as the temperatures begin to drop, or right after they fully leaf out in the spring, but before the heat of summer sets in. These are prime rooting times while the leaves can still photosynthesize and help produce the energy needed for rooting. It is also a time when the plant isn’t struggling to keep up with the water needs of summer, or trying to battle the cold of winter. If planting summer flowering trees and shrubs in the fall and winter, they may freeze back and develop dead wood over winter.  If twigs dry out the bark will crack and the limbs will die back without an adequate root system to draw the moisture to protect them. If they go into summer without an adequate root system they will drop leaves, and the flowers will be dwarfed, aborted or dry out quickly after emerging.

For balled and burlapped plants, the best time for them to be dug is when they are dormant, so selection will be limited the later in the summer you wait.  However, the best time to plant them is once they have leafed out, but before the heat of summer hits. This allows you to see which ones actually survived the digging process. You should feel safe planting any balled and burlapped plant at anytime if you can see a healthy root system emerging from the burlap. It will be happy to have been moved from the storage medium into the ground. It may shed some leaves in the process, but should be alright.

For containerized plants, timing for selection and availability is less critical, as they can be shipped and found throughout the year. However, since containers usually are stored above ground and have to be watered, the later in the season it gets the more root bound they can become and the more frequent watering they will need to get established.

If planting summer flowering trees and shrubs in the fall and winter, newly dug trees may sun scald and the bark might crack on the trunk over winter if the plant doesn’t have an adequate root system to draw the moisture to protect it.   Plants that have been above ground all summer will have already adjusted and should be alright.  If plants are go into summer without an adequate root system they will drop leaves, and the flowers will be dwarfed.  When planting balled and burlapped palnts going into summer it is bet to find ones that were dug the fall before.

Evergreen Trees and Shrubs

Evergreen trees and shrubs are the most forgiving when it comes to timing. Some varieties will have a determinate growth and will only grow for a certain time span of a few weeks per year. Others will be indeterminate and will grow on and off throughout the year. Those that are determinate do best if planted before the new growth emerges, or after it hardens off. These are easily identifies as they grow in “candles”, like pines and spruces. Indeterminate varieties will grow from “fans” of needles, and are far less sensitive since they will have more opportunities for growth throughout the year.  Evergreens are prone to damage if they are transported when the branches are frozen, and the tips will break and brown at a later date. So make sure it is above freezing when handling them.

For balled and burlapped evergreens, the best time for them to be dug is when they are dormant and not actively growing, so selection will be limited at various times throughout the year. If they have been dug and are in a holding situation with firm balls, they may be planted at any time. So make sure it is above freezing when handling them. You should feel safe planting any balled and burlapped plant at anytime if you can see a healthy root system emerging from the burlap. It will be happy to have been moved from the storage medium into the ground. It may shed some leaves in the process, but should be alright.

For containerized evergreens, timing for selection and availability is less critical, as they can be shipped and found throughout the year. However, since containers usually are stored above ground and have to be watered daily, the later in the season it gets the more root bound they can become.  This is especially true for Junipers and faster growing varieties.  For slower growing varieties like Yews.  If they are planted in a heavy clay or sandy soil they can be prone to root rot from the frequent watering.  If the soil in the pot smells sour, don’t buy it. 

Shade Trees

Fall is without a doubt the best time to plant shade trees.  After all, that is when nature does.  The hickory nuts fall and the acorns drop.  Mother nature has been successful planting trees far longer than we have so we should follow her lead.  They can be planted at other times of year, but don’t expect them to grow substantially for at least a year if you do.  It may take them all of that time to develop the root system to pull it off.  By planting in the fall, the tree will usually develop enough roots by next summer to require a minimum amount of maintenance and still put on a full year’s growth.

For balled and burlapped shade trees it is best if they are only dug when dormant.  So availbility may be limited thoughout the season.  Hardier varieties with fibrous root systems such as maple and birch may be dug in summer, but will almost always lose about half of the leaves and smaller limbs, especially if they are 2″ caliper or less.  Oddly, larger caliper trees have great success moving at times other than fall if you have to.  However, I have had great success moving 4-15″ caliper trees in late summer as the temperatures start to break.  If they have been well pruned in the fields, they will have enough mass in the branches to balance out the roots below.  That extra month of photsynthesizing leaves can be very helpful in getting the roots actively growing before winter if they aren’t held above ground too long.  However, I really wouldn’t try this as a homeowner.  While fall is ideal, you should feel safe planting any balled and burlapped plant at anytime if you can see a healthy root system emerging from the burlap. It will be happy to have been moved from the storage medium into the ground. It may shed some leaves in the process, but should be alright. 

For containerized shade trees, growers will usually grow them in 5 to 20 gallon pots or on occaision in wooden crates.  In  any case you will want to follow the rules of all other containerized plants.  The later in the season it gets the more root bound they can become and the more frequent watering they will need to get established.  The only thing to look out for is on 1-2″ caliper trees in containers.  Often times growers will buy bare root trees in the spring and put them into larger pots that they can remain in all year.  These will typically be in 10 to 20 gallons pots.  They put them in these pots so they won’t have to pot them up mid summer and they are often very economical.  However, they often won’t develop a root system hardy enough for planting until fall.  Always ask to see the roots of a containterized plant before planting.  If they won’t let you see them you will no why (more on this in the next blog).  

There are lots of other factors that you might want to know about individual species.  Most of that information can be found in the Botany Buddy Tree and Shrub Finder.  Hopefully this will give enough information to be and educated consumer, or a responsible professional.  Everybody has a “best time to plant.”  Hopefully now that you know what is best for the plants, you can determine what is the best time for you.  After all, you are the one who has to give them what they need.

Stay tuned for the next blog on choosing the best and healthiest plants for your needs …