On the Nature of Lawns

Since I started Botany Buddy and have been writing content for all of our upcoming applications, I have become somewhat addicted to reading all the old print trade magazines as well as blogs. It seems like one of the hottest topics is and always has been lawns and the use of turf grass in design. I have seen those that despise turf of any kind, those that don’t mind it as long as it is 100% organic, and those that think declaring your manifest destiny with acres of perfectly manicured turf is a symbol of the American way. I hate to say it but you all my just be right, because what is actually the right thing to do may be dependent upon the situation you are in.
I always like to take nature as my guide. Having spent the last five years designing and creating covenants for “sustainable” conservation properties, I have struggled with this dilemma myself and have come of with somewhat of a guide for decision making. Like with everything else, I use nature as my guide. If there was no place for grasses in our environment I seriously doubt we would have had the prairies, savannas, and wetlands to begin with. All three of these situations are nature’s home to grasses, and they have very specific roles in the habitat of our wildlife and ecosystem as a whole. Other than grazing, The main roles of grass in all of these situation are erosion control, water filtration, and play.
Erosion control is pretty easy to understand, and there is a reason all best management practices in construction require very stringent seeding or sodding processes. Once we killed the prairies, the winds blowing across the prairies would create the dust bowl and we learned this lesson the hard way. Once grasses secure and protect disturbed soil the roots and thatch of the grass naturally convert the exposed subsoil into nutrient rich topsoil. If you have ever lived in a brand new subdivision you see the emulation of this natural condition for the first ten to twenty years of its existence. If you have lived and gardened in a 100 year old neighborhood you have enjoyed the benefits of the nice rich soil this process leaves behind. Even in the woods, the herbaceous layer of perennials and in some cases grasses serve this same function. The process of growing, dying back, and returning to the soil is emulated in our own lawn as long as we leave the thatch in place.
The other place grasses are most prevalent are in wetlands and river bottoms. besides holding up the blooms of the beautiful wildflowers flowers for us to see better, grasses also are a vital filtration device for the water that flows through them. This can be the same in our yards. Running your storm water across a lawn is far better for the environment than channeling it in river rock or piping it to a storm water inlet. Running water across 30 feet of healthy turf can remove 90% of the sediment and pollutants the water carries. However this only works of you aren’t using even more pollutants to take care of the grass. If managed responsibly, turf is actually one of the most ecologically friendly ways to manage surface water and drainage. In the end the damage done poor drainage can be far worse than anything you can do with a lawn.
The final natural use of grassy areas I like to call “Play”. If you have ever had the chance to see Elk emerge from the forest after an afternoon rain to engage in their courting rituals and graze you know exactly what I am talking about. The same can be said for buffalo or deer, and it is not unlike watching my daughter play games in the front lawn with a bunch of her friends. The need for wide open spaces and battle our sense of claustrophobia is not only natural to us but most other species as well. No matter how unnatural some can make a lawn look, wide open grassy spaces are very much a vital part of our natural landscape. Unless a landscape is completely wooded they can look very unnatural without some form of lawn. I have seen plenty of gardens planted to the gills. Without a hint of negative space in the form of a meadow or lawn and they can look just as unnatural as a lawn. Ground covers can provide this effect too, but if they grow lower than weeds it is impossible to keep them healthy and if they are aggressive enough to keep them out they are usually an invasive species.
In short the challenge to designing with lawns isn’t whether or not to do it. The amount of sunlight and ability of the environment to support grass will determine that. The challenge is finding the methods of installation and management that get it established quickly, and do more to benefit nature than we do to harm it in the process. To guide you through these decisions I have put together this summary. This in not a “How To”. There will be an app for that. Think of it as a “why to”…or to not. I think you will find your answers come naturally and they will do more to help you succeed than any four-step program you buy and your local retailer.
Turf Grass Installation:

If you are looking for a traditional lawn, the two most common methods for installation are sodding and seeding. With soil preparation sodding typically costs from $1.00-$1.25 per square foot. Seeding Usually Costs $.15 to $.25 per square foot. However, this is very deceiving when you consider what it takes to achieve establishment. To get seed to establish into a lawn in a landscape takes an average of 3-4 applications of herbicides, preemergents, and fertilizers per year. It also usually requires at least one major aeration and renovation if not more, extensive watering, and frequent overseeding. It also takes more water to establish the seed, and to maintain it in the hottest times of the year because it has less of a root system to support the blades. This is just for one year, and it actually takes two full years of diligent, chemical ladent maintenance to beat the lifecycle of the weeds. That is only if your timing is prefect and you don’t miss a beat. Otherwise it can take longer.
There is no doubt that sod farms water incessantly, and pump tons of chemicals into the soil. But the space that they pollute is limited. They will typically get twenty or more harvests out of the same piece of ground. They also tend to harvest and recylce their water and as a result are becoming more and more conscious of the the nitrogen levels and especially herbicides in it. Due to the intense methods and irrigation, sod farms also produce a harvest ready turf in six to twelve months vs. two to three years. This means it takes at the most 1/3 the chemical usage to achieve the desired thickness as it does to seed a lawn. They are also strictly strictly regulated when it comes to run-off whereas homeowners are some of the biggest polluters with with their fertilizers running off right to the street and into the storm water system with no riparian buffer at all. Numerous sources can be found to cite that homeowners use 10 times the number of pollutants on their lawns per acre than agriculture does. This should make us think twice about how responsible we are.
Turf Grass Maintenance:
Mowing: The most environmental damage that results from lawns isn’t from having them, but rather how we take care of them. There are three main things to look at in the care of the lawn, mowing, fertilizing, pest/disease and weed control, and watering. While treating pests, diseases and weeds directly contributes the most toxins to the soil and water, how you mow and water contributes to most to how much treating you need to do. There is now greater deterrent to all of these other problems than having a healthy lawn in the first place. Remember all of these other problems occur when what you trying to grow in the first place is weakened by not being allowed to do what it wants to do naturally.
Almost all turf grasses are bred from naturally occurring varieties that grow between six and twenty-four inches in height. Now most of them have been bread to have thinner blades and can no longer hold themselves up naturally, but the closer we can allow them to get to that six inches the more they can do to take care of themselves and their space for us. Other than specialty turfs like zoysia (which set you up for failure anyway), most common turf grasses shouldn’t be mowed shorter than three inches and should be allowed to grow at least two before mowing. Not only will this make the grass perform better, but it will get tall enough to keep most weeds out, or at least hide them. Your mower also pollutes, but that is a topic for another blog, hopefully the price of gas is starting to make you aware of that.
Chemical Treatments
Fertilizing: The two most common chemicals applied to lawns are fertilizers and herbicides. Even organic chemicals, especially fertilizers, can create runoff if over used and pollute our streams. Chicken manure is organic, and a great fertilizer, but you don’t want you well head next to the chicken house. The best deterrent is to only use them when absolutely necessary. Too often people throw down nitrogen every time their lawn looks a little yellow or brown. Some times it just needs a simple trace mineral like lime or iron, or it just plain needs a break because it is too hot or cold out. The only times that the need for nitrogen can be very obvious are in spring and fall when the grass is in prime growing season and it is still having problems. Keeping grass growing in 100 degree temperatures is just as brutal as trying to keep yourself going and sometime we both just need a break.
Herbicides: Weed control is the second biggest polluter in lawn care. It is also probably the easiest battle to lose. That is why I recommend not even trying if you don’t have too. My personal lawn is a mix of fescue, bluegrass and rye, but it also has some oxallis, nutgrass, and clover. These weeds don’t get large enough to kill out the turf grass, and they provide fodder for the rabbits that keeps them out of my veggie patch. When they go dormant in the fall, their thatch also creates a nice medium for overseeding the fescue that is slowly choking them out. If you do have to treat something, only spot treat it, and only bother with things that can actually get big enough to kill out your grass or is a seriously invasive species like honeysuckle or crown vetch.
Pesticides and Fungicides: Aren’t used as often as other chemicals but can be just as dangerous to the water supply and wildlife even in smaller quantities. Once again the question here is why bother. Yes grubs will bring moles that tear up your yard, but grubs prefer clay and the moles help aerate and break it down. Grubs also provide food for wildlife like wild turkeys and robins. Treating fungus can slow down the organic processes needed to actually let your lawn and soil improve by itself, and the pesticides can kill the worms that provide the best fungicide and aeration of all. Most of the problems you would treat for in the first place you can’t spot until the damage is done. It is easily repaired with over seeding in the fall, and most disease and insect problems will usually run a natural course and disappear within a year. In the end preventative treatments can do far more damage to your soil than the actual problems you are treating for, so think twice before applying or don’t apply at all.
Watering: I recently did a post on watering titled: Plants Are Like People: Water With Love Even If It’s Tough. All of the same rules I go over there apply to turf. A healthy turf can’t use more than an inch of precipitation a week, and should never be manually watered more often than once per week. If you follow the instructions on the previous post you can get away with hardly watering at all. We just came off of one of the worst droughts in the history of the Southeast, and in those years I never had to water my lawn more than once a month during the summer because I used the deep fall and winter watering described in the previous post. Also the taller you let your grass get the deeper the roots will grow. If the roots are three inches deep, and you have watered deep enough to reach all the roots, you should be able to go three weeks without watering. There are some common sense things you should do to prevent runoff like not watering the street or your driveway, but nothing is better for the environment than eliminating the need to water at all.
To wrap things up, lawns represent a vital part of our natural ecosystem. They serve functions that are vital to wildlife and nature as well as our nature as human beings. As long as we take nature’s cues on when to use them and don’t try to grow them where they don’t belong or want to be there is nothing unnatural about them at all. What is unnatural is what we have been doing to them.
There is a dirty little secret in the gardening business that there are three things someone will spend 500 times what they spent on the plant on the supplies to grow them: tomatoes, roses, and grass. Next time you are in a garden center or big box store, look around and see what they have dedicated their space to. Successful gardening is about getting plants to grow for us so we can focus on finding, growing and new plants. If a lawn doesn’t do more to take care of the space it occupies either you are doing too much for it, or it shouldn’t be there in the first place. There are natural uses and needs for lawns, we just have to take nature’s cues and think naturally about what we do with them.
















As for the animals in the landscape people tend to take the easiest possible path, and so does water. From a practical standpoint, the water won’t washout your beds or puddle and breed mosquitoes. It will create moisture along the paths were smaller plants that require more water go, and it will dry out other areas for evergreens and shrubs that are more sensitive to water. Animal migration can also create flow in nature and the garden. The two most prominent animals in your landscape are dogs and mailmen. Dogs are like the deer and other animals in the landscape that create migration paths that don’t follow the water. If I have a dog in a landscape, I will always leave a little maintenance path behind shrubs along a fence. This allows them to patrol their landscape and creates airflow behind the shrubs so they don’t die out on one side. With a privacy fence I also like to leave a small strip of lattice along the bottom to let them see out and increase air flow. As for mailmen, I can’t remember the last time I did an urban landscape that didn’t have a path for them to go door to door. Not only does it keep them from trampling the plants, but it gives an excuse to pull down the height of a house with the plantings without adding so many plants it looks unnatural.
Nature has two main types of scenery that you encounter, and so does any good landscape. Olmstead called these the pastoral and the picturesque. The pastoral are the wide open sceneries that allow you to get lost in the sunset and your mind to escape. It brings out the grandness of the landscape. In urban setting everything is usually boxed in and strictly defined by property lines. These pastoral scenes don’t often occur naturally so you have to lead the eye to them. The easiest way to do this is use tall things closer to your gathering areas to screen the neighbors beside you and taper down your heights to the corner where you can see the furthest. Always make sure that what is in that corner is shorter than what is just behind it outside of your yard and this will lift your eye back up and create that escape. The tapering of heights to the furthest point will also create a sense of perspective making your space seem larger than it is.



During the average growing season, most established plants can use no more than one inch of water per week. To be able to stick to this you need to make sure that all of the soil in and around the planting area has a deep base of adequate moisture. If it does, as the soil dries out immediately around a newly planted plant moisture will move from the surrounding soil to the soil in the hole through osmosis. If you plant a plant into to an area where all of the surrounding soil is dry, when you water all of the moisture will move the other way and you won’t be able to retain moisture around the plant. Whenever you are going to be planting an area, you should always water the entire area thoroughly. Think of it as getting the nursery ready for that newborn you are about to bring home. In the end it save you several trips to the store (or in this case hose).

Winter Watering isn’t something people usually think about. However a plant has more of a chance of dying in winter from a lack of water than it does in summer. The water that fills the tissue of a plant’s trunk and branches is actually what protects it from extreme freezing temperatures. When matter freezes it expands. When the cells of a plant expand, the gases inside can expand more than the tissue itself and cause the cells to explode. If the cells are filled with water it displaces those gases and keeps them from expanding too far. If a plant freezes when it is dry, it can literally freeze-dry the plant, making it impossible for the cells to retain water again. The best way to prevent this is to actually water in the fall or early winter before the ground freezes.
The main thing to remember when watering is the more frequent and less deep you water the more often you will have to water. The sooner you learn what your plants really the need, the less you will have to give them, and the less they will eventually need. To some extent, your plants can be taught to live with your schedule, and the sooner you teach them to the better off you both will be. Think of that deep watering you give your plants a couple times this winter as that Sunday afternoon pot roast or chicken and dumplings you make for your family on a cold winter day. It will keep their little cells warm on those cold winter days, and help built the muscles they need get through the summer ahead. It is also like the hearty soup that allows them to pull in all those nutrients from the soil below to fight off disease and stress. Think of watering you plants as caring for someone you love…and they’ll be sure and love you back. Plants are like people, so don’t treat them like a hardwood floor.
Castanaea dentata (American Chestnut): This tree is one of the most known stories of eco-catastrophe in our countries history. The Chestnut was the most coveted of all lumbers in the early part of the 1900’s. As a result was the clear-cutting of almost all of the Southern Appalachians. The practices were horrid, and reminiscent of a scene from a slaughter house, but of trees. Lumber that wasn’t seen as fit to mill was left in place leaving entire mountains looking like salvage yards. Stumps were left in place, and all of the ground vegetation was smothered under the debris. Erosion was rampant, and as a result these wastelands became a breeding ground for what would become the Chestnut blight. Species such as the black bear were almost completely lost, deer populations dissipated, and without the nuts to forage or forest to find protection from hunters Elk eventually disappeared.
Ulmus americana (American Elm): In the first half of the 1900’s this tree was the most common street tree in the United States. It’s arching branches formed cathedral ceilings over almost every street in every city. It become an icon of American urbanism and the America Beautiful movement. It fell victim not to greed of harvesting, or destruction of its environment, because this tree grew anywhere. Rather it fell victim to careless breeding and commercialization that weakened the species. While Chinese and European varieties were being imported for breeding to create fancy bark or brighter fall color, no one realized that they were weakening the species and importing a deadly disease that would bring the native species to its knees.
Pinus palustris (Longleaf Pine / Southern Yellow Pine): The Longleaf pine was on of the signature trees of Southeast coastal regions. This tree is very unique in that for the first eight years of its life it grows like a fireproof grass with no trunk elongation. Then it shoots up and it sensitive to burns, but once it reaches about 10′ it becomes fire proof again and soars to heights of up to 100′. This burning process is crucial to its reproduction and the culling of healthy forests. The lush wild look this process creates was the image that was burned into the minds of explorers when the new world was being discovered. The unique habit created by the juvenile plants provide habitat to all sorts of foul and wildlife and as their habitat has become endangered so have some of them. Red-cockaded woodpeckers and indigo snakes are most at risk, but tourtouses are in line right behind them.
Quercus virginiana (Southern Live Oak): Yes, this tree is the one we have embedded in our heads from movies like Gone With the Wind, and every other great southern movie or novel. As we see them in all the urban settings and plantation gardens you would not think something this majestic could be in any sort of danger. The Spanish soss and fern growing on its branches make it look as thought this species is drooping from the weight or its virility. However, in its native habitat it is almost gone. The boggy soil and forests of the deltas where it thrived have mostly been drained for drilling, sugar cane, and development. These trees made up the buffers that used to protect New Orleans from the onslaught of hurricanes. There ability to be uprooted and fall apart but continue to grow in the loamy soil that was once its home was the constant stability that held the delta together. Now their native habitat is down to a few remaining national and state controlled forests. Of course other species have been impacted, but the most famous impact was the damage from Katrina that was exasperated without the natural buffers these trees created to protect it.
Tsuga hetrophylla (Western Hemlock) & Tsuga caroliniana (Carolina Hemlock): Both of these trees have suffered similar fates. Both are the victims of over logging. Unfortunately both were thought to be invincible as they grew like the Red Cedars of the Midwest on either coast. In the East the Carolina Hemlock was hardly ever used for lumber, They were usually casualties of careless Chestnut and Oak harvest and turned into pulp or used for fuel. By the time the species was decimated people had realized it was a beautiful lumber and turned to the bountiful west coast for the Western Hemlock in its place. Neither were able to come back as fast as they were being harvested and as a result the faster growing Tsuga canadensis (Canadian Hemlock) and various Pines have taken their respective places.
Picea sitchensis(Sitka Spruce): Another victim of logging, this species is also succumbing to the woolly adelgid. One of the more tragic consequences of this parable is that this tree is the home to the endangered Spotted Owl. When the fight over protecting the owl versus the right to harvest came to a head the harvest rate increased dramatically as it turned into a race to see how much people could harvest as while they still could. As timber containing adelgid infested lumber moves up and down the highways it just spreads it even more. In the end both the owl and the loggers are losing out as they are losing the tree they both covet so much.
Thuja plicata Western Red Cedar: This tree has been devastated in its native habitat due to logging for pulp. However, it is thriving and making a surge in cultivation. As the Hemlocks and Junipers used in landscapes have become more problematic and disease prone, this tree grows with relative ease. It struggles to outpace the pines that are moving into the native habitat because the Pines grow larger and shade them out. While in the landscape people are finding this to be a great native alternative to give the feel of a Canadian Hemlock without the adelgids or chemicals to keep the bugs at bay. However do to massive logging its natural disbursement patterns have been disrupted permanently and it may never be able to reestablish itself against the more aggressive species taking it’s place.
It’s that time of year again. I’ve cleaned out the tube bird feeders, hung a couple new suet feeders, and I have already had on ripped down by the bear. I always like to wait until winter is really coming to start feeding. Primarily because I like to let the birds “Free Range” on wild flower seeds and the summer fruits and berries in the garden. I like the thought of them helping with the natural cycle of scarifying and dispersing the seeds the way nature intended. I also like not having the bears visit everyday, especially with my daughter playing outside by herself all summer. This is a luxury we have living on a rural mountainside that we didn’t have on an urban street corner. Not that the bears are the threat that some of our neighbors were. They are more akin to urban raccoons that scavenge their way around on garbage day and pilfer your bird feeders.
Pinus (Pine): There are dozens of native pines that make great trees for birds. Pinus Strobus (Eastern White Pine) is the most commonly planted in the United States, but for smaller varieties in residential gardens some other native options include Pinus aristata (Bristlecone Pine), Pinus banksiana (Jack Pine), Pinus Bugeana (Lacebark Pine), Pinus Resinosa (Red Pine), and Pinus monophylla (Pinyon Pine). These pines are all more moderate in size than the White Pine, but still maintain a natural feel in a formal landscape. This makes them ideal for urban or residential situations.
Juniperus (Juniper): Juniperus communis (Common Juniper), Juniperus monosperma (Oneseed Juniper), Juniperus occidentalis (Western Juniper), Juniperus scopularum (Rocky Mountain Juniper) and Juniperus virginiana (Eastern Red Cedar) are the most common native varieties in the continental United States. Between these five you can find a native Juniper almost anywhere in North America. All of these varieties have been cultivated into varieties for landscape use that can be safely used without worrying about reseeding invasive offspring. If seed stock does emerge it will come out as one of the native varieties. There are some hybridized varieties that could revert to something else, so if trying to stay native stick to cultivated or native varieties only.
Viburnums: Viburnums are a favorite of landscape designers because they are extremely hardy They also produce nice flowers, foliage and berries and provide some great fall color. Some are even evergreen, and the flowers are often extremely fragrant. However, they are usually somewhat of an unknown to beginning gardeners or casual retail nursery shoppers. Native species include Viburnum dentatum (Chicago Luster Viburnum), Viburnum prunifolium (Blackhaw Viburnum), Viburnum rufidulum (Rusty Blackhaw Viburnum), and Viburnum trilobum (American Cranberry Viburnum), All of these plants have abundant flowers and berries and can be kept as large shrubs or small trees in any landscape. The birds love them for the berries and their height is achieved with fairly small horizontal branches that are great for perching but don’t hold the weight of predators making them a nice place for birds to hang out. There are also many cultivated and hybridized non-native varieties that are not invasive. If for some reason a native option doesn’t work for you, I would not hesitate to explore those options.
Cornus (Dogwood): Everyone thinks of Dogwoods as the spring flowering tree, however they also come in some naturalizing and shrub forms as well. Cornus florida (Flowering Dogwood) is a sentimental favorite for gardeners with the pink and white flowers at Easterand red berries in the fall. However Cornus racemosa (Gray Dogwood) makes a great naturalizing thicket of about 12-15 feet and produces a nice white flower in May and June and a waxy white berry birds love. Other varieties include Cornus alternifolia (Pagoda Dogwood), Cornus drummundii (Rough-leaved Dogwood), Cornus nuttallii (Pacific Dogwood), and Cornus sericea (Red Twig Dogwood). The Rough-leaved and Red Twig Dogwoods provide a shrub form and the red twigs provide great winter interest. All of these plants have wonderful landscape value, as well as make great naturalizers. They all have reliable berries for the birds, provide nesting habitat, and add aesthetic value to add to any garden.
Prunus (Cherry): The Prunus (Cherry) family covers more than the cherries we eat or the flowering trees we see in spring. There several shrub forms and not as showy trees that can add subtle accents to the landscape, as well as habitat and fodder for birds. Prunus virginiana (Chokecherry) comes in several forms and varieties and is a great alternative to some of the hybrid and grafted tree-form varieties. Prunus caroliniana (Carolina Cherrylaurel) and its Asian counterpart Prunus lauroceasus (Cherry Laurel) make great evergreen shrubs, providing both protection and berries as well as a nice evergreen foliage for the landscape. Prunuis subhirtella (Weeping cherry) is a nice pink flowering native that drops small berries mid summer. Prunus besseyi (Sand Cherry) is a great naturalizing shrub with small white flowers and black berries that are low enough to provide fodder for foraging birds like pheasant and turkey. Finally, Prunus americana (Wild Plum) is probably one of the most common fruit bearing trees and can be found in almost all states east of the Rockies. Of course there are other varieties as well, but as a family, Prunus may provide more food for the birds this continent than any other plant family.
