Botany Buddy

The other day is doing my morning Twitter rounds, making sure that the world hadn’t imploded between 2:00 and 8:00 AM, when I came across a tweet about Botany Buddy from someone I didn’t know.  Now, my personal tweetographic region isn’t full of people that I often know on a personal (as in “in person”) level.  Those who tweet in my actual town are more prone to know me as a home-brewer than a horticulturist.  However, in my brief stint in the nest I have definitely come to “know” some of you in the most cyber of senses, and I think we have developed some true bonds.  But other than a few locals here in the mountains I think most of the getting to know that people do at this stage of my Twitter existence is still a matter of “Checking Me Out”.   This tweeter was definitely checking me out.  It went something like this…

“Watching a demo of @botanybuddy’s Tree and Shrub Finder. Not quite ready to get rid of my copies of Dirr and Hosie et al.”

Of course I replied…

“I still have mine and just bought the new one, but they don’t fit in my pocket and don’t have a search engine so I use both ”

For those who don’t know Dirr wrote the Bible of trees and shrubs and all subsequent versions.

Lets face it, I love books and always will, but I needed something I could use in different was.  My father was a college professor and every house we lived in had at least one room that was wallpapered from ceiling to floor with books on Philosophy, Political Science, and History.  As for my own, I replace the history with Gardening, Design, and Architecture.  I live for the day I can wallpaper with them and I love nothing more than to retreat into the stacks and dig out the most precious nugget of theory or fact, but almost immediately take what I find and somehow put it on my computer.  A little known fact is that after decades I have reunited with my high school debate partner to create Botany Buddy.  As I wrote our original database surrounded by stacks of books and references till all hours of the morning for months on end, I couldn’t help but hearken back to endless nights in the local college library writing our note cards and scouring the stacks, microfiche and card catalogs.

This process has also brought me back to much of the music of my past, as the headphones have been vital to my ability to focus and get my work done.  The scouring of data and compiling of collections has also coincided with the rediscovery of my music collection which is as vast and old as my collection of garden references.  Burning all of my old Cd’s and converting to iTunes from Napster made me even more aware of what we were about to do with all of these plants and the people in print and in my life who had brought me too them.  As I entered the plants and wrote the descriptions I relived my first reads and all of the people who I had planted them for.  I was also reliving the memories of  all the people and moments associated with the music I was listening to at the same time.  In the greatest of all coincidences, the final submittal of the final version of the app also coincided with the long awaited release of the remastered collection of The Beatles.

Almost as much as I looked forward to the release of the app, I was also looking forward to the re-release from The Beatles.  How great it was going to be to click one button and download every song they had ever written in chronological order and grouped by album.  Having bought them all at some point in vinyl, put them into or bought them on tape (even some on real to real), and eventually bought them one more time on CD to honor their survival to the digital age, the chance to buy them one more time was going to be an honor.  I was feeling the same about buying my own app.  To have all the things I love digitally recorded and stored where I could save and use them for eternity without every having to hunt them down because I had lost or worn them out again was going to be a dream come true.

I may sound a little obsessive compulsive and I am.  I even have every printed version of the Joy of Cooking and use them all.  It seemed almost spiritual as I was going to get the Beatles on MP3 at as the same time as would launch my own creation.  There was only one thing wrong…In the end (regardless of Amazon’s advertising) there were no MP3’s.  Once again I would have to replace the Cd’s that I had worn out, and that was alright, because they are worth it.  I also just bought the new version of Dirr.  There are no full color pictures, there is no search engine, and I can’t freely share the contents with my Buddies.  But I bought it again anyway even though it cost $70 to my $10 app.  Why, because through his writing he has become a part of me, still has much to offer, and as in industry we owe where we are and where we are going to those who have brought us to this point.

To go full circle, as this new venture continually makes me do with my life, we are not trying to replace the Michael Dirr’s of the world, we are trying to honor their work.  When I first heard the Beatles were being “remastered” I thought it was insulting to even use the term with their name.  However, the thought of having them available in my pocket, with a search engine, and where I could share them with my wife in daughter excited me to all end.  When I got married, A Little Help From My Friends and When I’m 64 were our wedding songs, it happens to be in my ears right now.  When I bought the newly released collection, I didn’t buy the remastered version, I bought the originals and converted them to MP3.   The Beatles, my friends, and the Michael Dirr’s of the world are what have gotten me to where I am today.  I would never try to replace them, but I would love to have them all on MP3.

When I started this post it was going to be an all out attack on Lawn&Landscape Magazine.  Over the past several months they have taken a corporate political stance that has ceased to be an educational service to their industry and turned into an all out chemical and economic attack on garden consumers and professionals.  Their publication has obviously become an effort to carry water for the equipment,  chemical and insurance industries that pay for all their advertising and write their content.  It has ceased to be an educational service to the industry.

The article that finally pushed me over the edge wasn’t the one last month on how limiting turf use to 4000 sf per yard was an attack on our ideals, or the one the month before on how landscape employees that are constantly exposed to chemicals and physical danger don’t deserve health care.  Instead it was this month’s on how the industry was being attacked because municipalities in Canada where restricting chemical use in residential and environmentally sensitive areas.  Their fear was that the socialist tendencies of these Canadians might drift south like a cloud of RoundUp and make us little salamanders in the states start caring about the future of our children and water supply.  The full article is here…water bucket and all:  Best Defense

As most of you who read me know, I have spent my entire career in the landscape design build business.  One of the things that has made this business great is that as long as I can remember is that nurserymen, landscapers, and gardeners are typically true tradesmen who learn, love and teach their crafts.  They are not just tradesmen, but true craftsmen.  Probably the most notable reason this industry has been able to grow as fast as the customers isn’t just the demand that has paid for it, but also the numerous organizations, associations, and schools that have collaborated and been a part of that education.  The main goal of all these groups is the advancement of the industry by networking and educating.  For the most part all the various state associations, the ANLA, and various other groups make this their calling.  These groups also have one other thing in common, they are all in the business of growing, and understand that to do it successfully you can never stop learning.  They also know that the most important part of learning is listening to their industry, and their consumers.

(This is where I originally paused to figure out how to handle this tactfully)  then…

This morning I woke up to this wonderful post from Garden Rant: “A Chemical Reaction” Makes the Case.  It chronicles the grassroots efforts of the Canadian people to protect their children and resources, and the woman who made it her life’s cause.  This is a wonderfully positive take on what happens when industry and government listen to the needs of their customers and in the end grow together for the benefit of both.  What happened in Canada is a case of consumers driving change and an industry growing to meet demand in trying times rather than screaming that they are under attack.  This is an example of what our industry has always been about when it is at it’s best.

Lawn & Landscape Magazine used to be dedicated to advancing and teaching a growing industry but has gradually become increasingly consumed with maintaining the status quo.  Now obviously for them the status quo is the never ending supply of equipment and chemical vendors who cover %70 of their publication with adds.  However, for the people in this business the future isn’t in buying up their vendor’s over saturated, unwanted, and unaffordable inventories, it is in learning their changing market’s needs and desires and adapting their businesses to them.  In short they need to learn, and education requires two things; listening and thinking.  Both of these Lawn & Landscape  has been too busy screaming how we are under attack to do.

Before I started Botany Buddy I had to go through some serious reconciliation.  I was giving up 25 years of designing landscapes usually for the sake of prestige and money.  It wasn’t necessarily desired by me, but by my clients who at least wanted to portray that image.  I was just paying for my gardening habit and overdosing on it with their money.  It was a viscous cycle, and for twenty years I watched the industry make the same mistakes as the clients.  Firms became more concerned about the appearance of the trucks and mowers than if the equipment best met the needs of their clients.  In the end, we even pushed this image to our clients, by focusing on the resale value of our product rather than how it made their lives or environment better.

Well as the false economy that paid for these false ideals has crumbled, a return to the values that started this industry are coming back.  In the last five to ten years sustainable landscaping has come into focus.  Everyday people are making decisions based upon their environments and lifestyles, and finding the essence in both rather than trying to create an image of a place that doesn’t exist.  Lawn & Landscape surely isn’t going to listen to little old Botany Buddy, and I’m sure after this Monsanto won’t let them promote my little $10 app.   That’s O.K., I didn’t get into this for them, I did it to return to my roots as a gardener, out of a love of the world around me, and to hopefully find a new way forward.  We may not be able to change the giant of industry, but maybe if all of us gardeners rant a little more, we can “uproot the gardening world” like the women of Garden Rant and change the world around them.

“There are places I remember all my life though some have changed, some forever not for better.  Some have gone, and some remain.  All these places have their moments with lovers and friends I still can recall.  Some are dead and some are living, in my life I’ve loved them all.” – The Beatles.

We all have those places, people and moments that will be with us forever.  The memories keep coming back like the chorus in our favorite songs or the the threads interwoven in our favorite fabric.  The same is true in nature and our favorite landscapes and places.  There is something in their presence that keeps coming back no matter how much they change or even if they are gone to remind us of the pure innocence yet wildness that takes us away in their midst.  When it comes to the plants and animals in those places I have loved them all, but there is one tree that all my life has emerged, returned and in some cases is gone, yet in my life I’ve loved it more.

The Beech is a magical tree for me.  As a small child growing up in a small college town, I lived next to one of the greatest gardeners the town had ever known.  I was about six years old and he was in his sixties, and in his yard was the only Beech in town.  He had planted that tree from a small mail order twig some forty years earlier.  It’s branches were rarely touched with a pair of pruners and draped all the way to the ground.  When he first took me inside of the canopy to show me the glory of the bark, it was like entering some hallowed Cathedral and once inside that seemingly old man turned into every bit of the six year old I was.  Like so many other people and places they are both gone from my life now, forever if not for better.  Yet I am sure that tree still remains, continues to provide magic to someone and sparks fires in the hearts of gardeners.

Like so many people that have come and gone from our lives, Beeches keep coming into mine.  When I first started learning the basics of design and a vast knowledge of plants under the tutilage of my first mentor (now the director of the Kauffman Memorial Gardens), one of our favorite journeys was to a giant Purple Beech.  It resided in the garden of an old science library with some of Cupernicus’ original handwritten journals and the toys he created to prove his theories.  That Beech’s bark still brought out the six year old in me.  When I first had my calling and knew for the first time I had to go into design, I was sitting under an American Beech originally planted by George Kessler as I was overcome by one his greatest designs.  From the comfort and protection of that Beech I was able to see how he had physically and emotionally moved me through the landscape and how I could someday do the same for others.  When I came to Asheville to buy a new home to settle, as we entered the Smokies from Tennessee, the golden leaves of juvenile trees in winter lit up the under story of the mountains.  They led the way like gold coins sparkling in the forest all the way through the gorge.

Now as I sit on the side of my mountain, many of those places and Beeches are gone forever, if not for better.  But for having known them I am a better person, and I have loved them all.  Just as is true for having known the people who introduced them to me along the way.  Now I am surrounded by Beeches, and the people and places I love are the fabric of my life.  Sometimes I take them for granted and need The Beatles to remind me they won’t be there forever.  As I built Botany Buddy this summer, when I needed to get away I would retreat through the grove of Beeches outside my back door to journey to the creek and escape.  Yet somehow, I managed to forget to include them in the original library.  For that I apologize to everyone, but especially to the Beeches.  Sometimes we just need our favorite songs to remind us of the love that surrounds us here and now because it might not be there forever.

“But of all these friends and lovers there is no one compares with you, and these memories lose their meaning when I think of love as something new.  Though I know I’ll never lose affection for people and things that went before.  I know I’ll often stop and think about them.  In my life, I love you more.” - In My Life – The Beatles

What happens when you combine politics, various county governments, Academe and community organizing?  Usually not much.  Having been been raised in Academe and involved in plenty of politics, when I first heard of a BYGL I definitely had my preconceived notions.  In fact the first image that came to my mind was the Spoofhound.  That was the name of my high school mascot. Rumor had it in the early days our football team was so inept at coming together and working as a team that the coach said they all looked like a bunch of  Spoofhounds.  The name has stuck as long as anyone can remember.  Of course when the teams are good everyone tries to change their name to “The Hounds”.  However being a dog lover I have always been fond of the name Spoofhound.  I couldn’t have been more proud of that name when they recently gained national notoriety for an act of selflessness that became a network and Internet sensation and showed how greatness can be reached when unlikely partners come together to do something good. (story)

When I first heard of  ”The Bygles” (at least that is what I call them), I have to admit I imagined somewhat of a Spoofhound effort in the purest sense of the name.  After all how could so many competing entities possibly come together to beat the odds for the benefit of everyone.  Anyone who has worked in horticulture or been a gardener knows that when you are working one on one with an extension agent it can be a wonderful experience.  However, if you knew what it requires to allow that to happen you would be surprised you had the chance to meet with an agent at all.  Typically University Extension Services are are funded by a combination of federal, state, and local or county funds.  Most are also usually torn between a university system and local governments.  This makes it really easy for someone be turned into a research assistant or someone who has to do the biddings of a politician trying to seek reelection.  Yet somehow through personal care and a love of their jobs by individual agents those of us on the receiving end are rarely aware of this paradox.  These agents are friends, educators, and ambassadors between the farmer in the field or the gardener in their yard and many different figments in ivory tours that hold the fate their existence in a very fragile web of funding and interests.

Somehow in the story of  ”The Bygles” all of these odds are overcome to create an effort more worthy of the name Superdog than a Spoofhound.  BYGL is a statewide newsletter put out weekly through the growing season by The Ohio State University Extension Service.  This seems like no big deal.  All of our local agents put out at least monthly newsletters, or at least most do.  However this one is different.  Every week during the growing season agents from every county in the state come together via conference call to discuss not only what is happening in their districts, but how diseases, insects, and trends are acting across the entire state and their region of the country as a whole.

For one day every week these people bring all of their local perspectives but put aside their local agendas to see how they can address these problems as a state and on a statewide level.  After the meeting everything is compiled into one document and not only faxed out to all of their various members and users, but also put together online where the report can be accessed.  Not only can the report be accessed, but through the effort of some dedicated agents and university staff, wonderful photos are taken and information is gathered to tell the story as it needs to be addressed today and not just recycled from some old files.  Not only that, they reach outside of their own circle to other agencies and resources, and all the appropriate links and references are included so people can quickly find what they need.  As a result they are able to address problems and needs for the entire state as an ecosystem rather than one county at a time, and over come all the bureaucratic odds.

As gardeners our biggest challenge is learning the ecosystems we work in and learning how to help the plants and animals in them to work together for the good of the entire garden.  Gardening can be challenging, but working across all the various bureaucratic boundaries, and hierarchies to pull this off has to be harder.  One of  ”The Bygles” likes to say “Information is not Education”  As someone with a philosophy degree, I have to agree.  Having managed lands in many states and across state and county lines, I have become familiar with many extension services and their resources.  They are loaded with information and are extremely valuable resources, but BYGL is definitely designed for education, not just to disperse information.

The last BYGL was just published for the season until next spring, but I highly recommend you check this site out.  I would be proud to call this dog a Spoofhound in the greatest sense.  *Note: when you go to this page the links to older newsletters are at the bottom.  The links at the top are under construction as they are archiving this years content.

Whenever I start talking about landscaping with nature people start to get all squeamish and think “Oh no…another weedy looking woodland garden.  Don’t get me wrong, I love a good woodland garden.  Real ones hardly even require planting.  What I am talking about is using nature as your guide in design.  I have been designing landscapes for over 20 years now, and the last five I have been blessed to do most of my work in the nature of the Southern Appalachians.  However, before that I spent fifteen years designing several hundred gardens in the heart of the city and the heat and cold of the Midwest.  Even in the most unnatural of places I learned that the more you emulate nature, the more beautiful things will be and the easier they will be to take care of.  After all, nature is beautiful and it does a good job of taking care of itself if we don’t screw it up.

There are some key things that nature does itself that when you look at the greatest of landscapes you will always find.  I could never squeeze everything into one post, but there are some key things that if approached from the outset will make the rest fall in place.  If we take nature’s lead on how it designs and plants its gardens we are bound to succeed and it is bound to be beautiful.  What I will explore are the main aspects of landscapes, how nature creates them and how we can emulate them.

The first thing that nature lays out in a landscape is the flow.  To understand this we have to understand that in nature and in the landscape it is the water that determines flow.  Where the water goes in nature so does the wildlife.  The migratory patterns of the birds and the animals are all tied to the water and their need to get to it.  In the garden it is people that flow, as well as the birds and animals that visit…including our dogs.  I like to make my paths and walking areas follow the drainage in the garden.  In high traffic areas I will make stone paths or place stepping stones inter-planted with “steppable” plants or ground covers.  In open areas, if I have grass at all, I will take water across it as well.  As water creates the valleys and flat areas in nature, doing this in the garden serves the aesthetic need of making the garden look like it was meant to be there.

As for the animals in the landscape people tend to take the easiest possible path, and so does water.  From a practical standpoint, the water won’t washout your beds or puddle and breed mosquitoes.  It will create moisture along the paths were smaller plants that require more water go, and it will dry out other areas for evergreens and shrubs that are more sensitive to water.  Animal migration can also create flow in nature and the garden.  The two most prominent animals in your landscape are dogs and mailmen.  Dogs are like the deer and other animals in the landscape that create migration paths that don’t follow the water.  If  I have a dog in a landscape, I will always leave a little maintenance path behind shrubs along a fence.  This allows them to patrol their landscape and creates airflow behind the shrubs so they don’t die out on one side.  With a privacy fence I also like to leave a small strip of lattice along the bottom to let them see out and increase air flow.  As for mailmen, I can’t remember the last time I did an urban landscape that didn’t have a path for them to go door to door.  Not only does it keep them from trampling the plants, but it gives an excuse to pull down the height of a house with the plantings without adding so many plants it looks unnatural.

Nature has two main types of scenery that you encounter, and so does any good landscape.  Olmstead called these the pastoral and the picturesque.  The pastoral are the wide open sceneries that allow you to get lost in the sunset and your mind to escape.  It brings out the grandness of the landscape.  In urban setting everything is usually boxed in and strictly defined by property lines.  These pastoral scenes don’t often occur naturally so you have to lead the eye to them.  The easiest way to do this is use tall things closer to your gathering areas to screen the neighbors beside you and taper down your heights to the corner where you can see the furthest.  Always make sure that what is in that corner is shorter than what is just behind it outside of your yard and this will lift your eye back up and create that escape.  The tapering of heights to the furthest point will also create a sense of perspective making your space seem larger than it is.

The picturesque are those scenes where your eye gets stuck and you are looking at a space like a framed picture that creates a scene.  In nature this may be a giant boulder you walk up to on a hike.  You get stopped in your tracks then totally engrossed in the lichens, ferns and wild flowers growing from its cracks.  Its becomes like an entirely different world to explore inside of another.  The same can happen in your garden by planting in the cracks of a wall or having a collections of planters or a piece of art on a fence.  Even a planter next to your door where that gutter makes it hard to grow anything else can have the same effect.  One thing to be sure of is to repeat the elements in that planter in the landscape around it.  By splashing a few of the impatiens in the pot on the ground around it, it will tie it into the rest of the landscape.  It will be just like the ferns that grow on that rock that also grow on the ground around it and lead you down the trail and on into the forest.

Plant diversity is crucial to any healthy natural environment and also any good garden or landscape.  Diversity comes in many forms.  What I am going to focus on here is the layers of a landscape and how they are dispersed.  Nature creates this diversity and uses the plants to care for the space and the animals in it.  So should you.  I like to relate the levels of the landscape to music.  Good music has always found its roots in the rhythms of nature and so does any good art, especially a natural one like landscape.

These rhythms come it two forms.  The first rhythm can be found in the layers.  Nature, good gardens and great music all have an upper, middle and lower range.   In nature this is made up of the trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants.  Neither nature nor a garden is in its complete form without all of these.  The trees provide the canopy and determine the amount of light and moisture hitting the ground, soil type and everything that will grow below it.  The trees create the homes for the animals and the home for everything below it.  Think of them as the ceiling and walls of a room.  Just like nature does, when designing plantings you should always start with the trees because they determine everything else.

The mid range is the shrub layer, and can also include smaller flowering trees.  They provide food for most of the wildlife. They also also create the depth of the landscape, just like midrange creates depth in music.  The shrub layer will do the most to take care of space for you just like it does in nature.  When you come across an thicket of huckleberry in the woods, it always looks perfectly groomed and placed as though it has been meticulously pruned even though man has never touched it.  Besides creating depth in terms of space and layers they also create new spaces to discover behind and around them providing for a sense of discovery and surprise.  This layer is not only rich in space creation.  It is rich in performance as well because these plants provide elaborate flower, berry , fall color and bark shows that create a tapestry of their own.  Not only do they provide the most fodder aesthetically, they also do the most to feed the birds and other wildlife.

The low range is the final layer.  In music it is the base that rolls along, providing the rhythm for everything else and fills the voids of the down times.  In plantings it is the herbaceous layer.  I would hardly consider a tuba or tympani to be similar to a Hosta or Astilbe, but they are.  If played properly they both are a delicate presence in the back ground that emerge and steal the show when everything else is down.  In the garden and nature the perennials quietly hold the ground while the mid range shows off all spring, then they tactfully take their turns showing off their color as the flowers of spring fade away.  Then they roll into a crescendo heading into fall only to step aside for the finale of the trees with fall color.  They are the fabric that holds the ground in place and takes care of the space for you.  Then they give you that little extra right when you need it.

Along with the layers all good music, nature , and gardens have rhythm.   The patterns in all great music, art and gardens can all be traced to those of nature.  The arts and particularly music really exploded in the last century when people stopped trying to create things just for the sake of creating them and started looking for inner meaning.  The rhythms of  jazz embody this and the greatest artistic nod to nature of all has to be syncopation.  When gardeners realize that everything doesn’t have to spaced in 4/4 (formally and perfectly symmetrical) that is when their lives get easier, and much richer.  Trying to make a garden embody a rigid structure is like trying to make a marching band embody dance.  It is next to impossible and everything has to be completely lined up all the time.  It is even worse in a garden because  it is even harder to make a plant do what you want than a teenager.

Plants need to be spaced to move you through the garden like the rhythm in music.  Then they will move you through the garden like music moves your feet.  Syncopate it…Put the weight of plants in one place to provide structure where you need it, but then repeat it tapering off in the direction you want the eye to move.  If you plant five in one place, plant three a little bit over from there and maybe more even a little further over.  This is how nature does it and it will intrinsically add depth to the aesthetics of your garden, and the movement to keep it interesting.

Nature doesn’t plant in intertwining plant sausages so why should be.  Think of the sausage method like the landscape at McDonald’s, it may be showy, but it has about as much depth as the food they are trying to sell.  I would much rather sit down to four hours of French cuisine with depth and rhythm that feeds my soul as well as my body.  Nature doesn’t plant its flowers in blocks of 300 only to be ripped out and replaced three times a year.  It plants them where the weeds would grow to take care of the space so they can dance with one other and the other plants in the forest to provide the richest show possible.  Out of the symbiotic relationships the ecosystem creates to grow emerges an equally complex combination of  outright beauty.

I could go into many other areas where nature is the best guide.  You could use materials that are native to your region.  Be it plant or rocks this always provides a sense of cohesiveness.  There are all kinds of great cues to follow when using water in the garden.  However, what I wanted to do here was help you learn to take your cues from the world around you.  Draw from not only from what makes nature beautiful, but what makes it work, and let it guide you in your own garden or artistic endeavors.  We have to quit creating gardens for the sake for feeding them, and start creating them to feed our souls and the world around us.  Most importantly when nature has created them for us, we need to quit screwing them up.

When people ask me how to water their plants I usually turn right around ask them for instructions on how to raise kids.  The point being you can’t know what to do for a plant until you get to know it like a person.  Raising plants is a lot like raising kids, and once you learn what works best for both of you the better off you both will be.  Too often people think that plants are like hardwood floors, that they need to be waxed at certain intervals, need to be kept perfectly clean, and that given the perfect routine treatment will always look shiny and new and age perfectly.  What they need to learn is that plants are like people and they need nourishment, security, and love; sometimes even tough love.

The overall goal of watering should always be to help plants get established quickly, and develop a healthy deep seated root system to deal with the trials and tribulations that lie ahead.  While you want to be diligent at giving your plants what they need to get established, you also want them to start to take less and less care from you.  If you have the right plant in the right spot, they should eventually be able to care of themselves.  That journey begins with security.  The best security a plant can have is not knowing that you will run out and water it at the drop of a leaf, but rather that it has plenty of water in the soil around it, not just in the hole that you put it in.

During the average growing season, most established plants can use no more than one inch of water per week.  To be able to stick to this you need to make sure that all of the soil in and around the planting area has a deep base of adequate moisture.  If it does, as the soil dries out immediately around a newly planted plant moisture will move from the surrounding soil to the soil in the hole through osmosis.  If you plant a plant into to an area where all of the surrounding soil is dry, when you water all of the moisture will move the other way and you won’t be able to retain moisture around the plant.  Whenever you are going to be planting an area, you should always water the entire area thoroughly.  Think of it as getting the nursery ready for that newborn you are about to bring home.  In the end it save you several trips to the store (or in this case hose).

The key to establishing healthy plants is the same as for kids.  You want to love them, but you don’t want to spoil them. Plants that are watered too frequently will not achieve the necessary root growth they need.  Instead, they will develop a shallow root system that you have to constantly water, and the roots will never get out on their own.  Nature very rarely waters more than once a week and manages to sustain itself and withstand times of extreme stress.  Even in those times of extreme stress nature will usually adapt and turn out stronger in the long run.  By having thoroughly watered soil, not only will moisture move toward the plant as it is needed, but the roots will move out to it in search of what they need. Watering too frequent and not deep enough will train the roots never to leave home.  Beyond just water needs deep watering will also help retain the nutrients in the soil by not washing them out of the soil because watering all of the time.

Anyone who knows what it is like to love a child should be well prepared to give a plant the love it needs.  Just like you want to make sure your child has everything they need to succeed in life you want to do the same for your plants.  The worst thing you can do for either of you is constantly react to circumstances.  In the end sometimes plants and children both need a little tough love.  Even if your plants have everything they need in the subsoil on the hottest of days they are going to wilt.  The last thing you want to do is run out there an water them.  That wilting action is triggering an natural response from the plant to dig in and grow the roots they need.  As long as that soil has the water the plant needs it will find a way to get it.  Just like your kids sometimes need to work through things, your plants need to do the same.

For those who need a little more specific information, these guidelines should help you be sure your plants to get established and encourage the  root growth they eventually need to make it without you.

Whenever installing a new plant be sure and water all of the soil around the hole. It is imperative that the root mass of new plants always be kept moist, as well as the soil around the holes they are in until active root growth begins. Adequate moisture needs to be maintained until the roots actually leave the hole that was dug for installation and penetrate the surrounding soil.  The best way to accomplish this is to actually water the hole you dug for the plant before you put it in it.   Actually fill the hole you have dug for the plant entirely with water and let it seep into the surrounding soil.  You will want to do this repeatedly until water begins to hold in the hole or seep out very slowly.  When you are planting the plant, water the plant while it is still in the container or burlap before putting it in the hole.  It is much easier to make sure it is moist before it is underground and covered with soil.  Once the water you put in the hole has drained, place the plant at the proper level,  and back fill the hole with soil halfway up around the root ball.   Once you have lightly packed the soil to hold the plant in place, fill the rest of the hole with water again.  Be sure and let the water soak completely in before back filling it the rest of the way.  Not only will this ensure the soil is wet, it will also remove any air pockets in the hole that could later cause roots to dry out or the plant to settle and lean.  Once you have finished filling the hole with soil, water it one more time.  The most common shortcut you will see a professional landscaper make is not following this entire process.  After 25 years in the landscaping business I would not be exaggerating if I said that 80% of the times that plants needed replaced or replanted it was because the installer skipped these simple steps and it wasn’t properly watered during planting.

Watering new plants after planting may be required more than once in the first week.  You should check daily to see if the plant needs water, but don’t water daily.  Stick your finger into the root mass of the plant as well as the soil around it and see if they are both wet.  If you find the soil is dry give it a little water.  If it is wet whatever you do don’t water even if the plant is wilting or showing signs of stress.  The only thing that will help it is growing the roots it needs to make it on its own.  Watering when it is not needed will actually prevent this.  You may have to water new plants a couple times a week in the first two weeks as the stress of planting can cause them to use more water, but ideally by the third week you should never have to water more than once a week.

Watering of established plants should not be needed (or performed) more than once per week, and combined with what nature gives they should not need more than the equivalence of 1 inch of precipitation per week.  If your soil is adequately moist beneath the  surface and all you need to do is supplement that top inch.  Watering too frequently will only keep the plant’s roots from reaching out for the moisture that is there.  In reality if you are using native species in a place with the proper light exposure, and in the right zone in terms of hardiness range, you shouldn’t have to water a plant at all after the first season.  In times of extreme drought you may want to water established plants, but good winter watering (the step below) should prevent the need for any sort of frequent watering.

Winter Watering isn’t something people usually think about.  However a plant has more of a chance of dying in winter from a lack of water than it does in summer.  The water that fills the tissue of a plant’s trunk and branches is actually what protects it from extreme freezing temperatures.  When matter freezes it expands.  When the cells of a plant expand, the gases inside can expand more than the tissue itself and cause the cells to explode.  If the cells are filled with water it displaces those gases and keeps them from expanding too far.  If a plant freezes when it is dry, it can literally freeze-dry the plant, making it impossible for the cells to retain water again.  The best way to prevent this is to actually water in the fall or early winter before the ground freezes.

Once the leaves and perennials are down for the season and you have chopped them up for mulch, it is actually the easiest and most efficient time of year to get water in the soil.  The water doesn’t roll off the foliage of the plants and lands directly where it needs to go.  It also is less likely to evaporate when using a sprinkler because the temperatures are lower.  Best of all the plant isn’t using it to grow (other than roots), so even in winter a good saturation can last a couple of months.  If you happen to get a warm spell in January or February, I actually recommend watering deeply a a couple of times over winter to establish that deep ground moisture before spring arrives.  It is much easier to do it in January than in the spring or summer than when the water is actively being used by the plants and foliage is emerging that deflects it.

Wilting and watering do not always go hand in hand.  I alluded to this earlier.  When a plant wilts, not only does it reduce transpiration, it is a natural reaction to reduce the amount of energy going to the leaves, and to divert it to other activities such as blooming, fruit production or root growth.  All of those are crucial to the survival of the species, and the plant will instinctively focus on those things when it senses stress.  Wilting is also a natural response in extreme hot and cold temperatures to reduce the amount of wind or light reaching the foliage to prevent desiccation.  More often than not, wilting is sign of healthy developmental activity in stressful situations.  If a plant wilts and is wet do not water it, the plant is just doing what it needs to grow the roots to succeed in life.  Think of it as tough love.

Stunted and shedding leaves can be indications of both positive and negative conditions other than moisture issues.  In the first months and even years after planting, leaves may shed or remain stunted and small to offset the lack of roots lost during transplanting.  Usually after several months or even a year, the same branches with stunted leaves suddenly show what seem like over-sized leaves, often three or four times the size of others. This is an indication that the roots are finally leaving the planting pit, and the plant is beginning to get established.  Burnt edges on deciduous foliage may be the result of a fungus rather than drought, which water will only exasperate.  When evergreens yellow and drop needles in the fall it is often a result of alkaline soil, and they are trying to acidify their own soil.  Watering them if wet will only cause root rot.  Just because you see these things happen it does not mean a plant needs water.  If you see these symptoms and the soil is moist you may need to dig a little deeper to find our what’s wrong.  We’ll have another post about how to do that digging later.

The main thing to remember when watering is the more frequent and less deep you water the more often you will have to water.  The sooner you learn what your plants really the need, the less you will have to give them, and the less they will eventually need. To some extent, your plants can be taught to live with your schedule, and the sooner you teach them to the better off you both will be.  Think of that deep watering you give your plants a couple times this winter as that Sunday afternoon pot roast or chicken and dumplings you make for your family on a cold winter day.  It will keep their little cells warm on those cold winter days, and help built the muscles they need get through the summer ahead.  It is also like the hearty soup that allows them to pull in all those nutrients from the soil below to fight off disease and stress.  Think of watering you plants as caring for someone you love…and they’ll be sure and love you back.  Plants are like people, so don’t treat them like a hardwood floor.

Having grown up in Northwest Missouri, where the winter winds of the plains from Iowa, Nebraska and Kansas converge on the bluffs of the Missouri River like three tornadoes of ice converging into one, I learned to appreciate anything in the vegetation that glowed with warmth.  In the surrounding landscape it was the golden tones of the fields laying fallow, especially when they sparkled from the frost glistening in the sun.  In the sky it was the amazing sunsets as far as the eye can see even after a long day of nothing but cold blue skies that seemed as if you were peering into ice.  On the highways it was the oasis that always formed about a half mile ahead of you on the road and what appeared to be steam rising from the asphalt that was the only thing absorbing the sun since there wasn’t a tree in sight.  The warmest memories of all were of course inside, with the smell of what some would call “farm food”.  The pot roast on Sundays, fried chicken on Saturdays, and of course spaghetti on Wednesdays.

However, when you arrived at someone’s home, it was usually one of the coldest sites of all.  In the midst of the pastures would be the perfectly green lawn.  The houses would always be white, to not show the dirt blowing off the fields and gravel roads, and they would be perfectly adorned with a straight row of yews, or junipers tortuously pruned into a shape they were obviously not supposed to be.  Green it would be, even in the evergreens with hedgerows of White Pine, Junipers, or Arborvitae perfectly marking the borders of the lawn.  Someone might occasionally get crazy and throw in a prized Blue Spruce (assured to have lights at Christmas), but when you needed that blue the most, it always seemed to look green if not brown from the burn of the winter winds. 

Quickly in my career as a designer I had to overcome this hurdle.  Being a plantsman first this wasn’t hard.  I grew up in nurseries, so my challenge as a designer wasn’t finding plants to use, it was learning how to restrain my pallet.  One thing I learned early on was that it was hardest to make a landscape look great in winter.  However, if you could accomplish that, making it interesting the rest of the year was a piece of cake.  I am not talking about using all kinds of colorful evergreens that look like they came out of a crayon box.  I love interesting conifers, but not when the color overpowers the essence of the plant.  So in this post I thought I would focus on plants with interesting barks.  Conifers are too easy.  The following plants are some of my favorites, but by no means all that I use.  They are also a mix of native and non-native varieties, but none should be invasive.  What they do have in common is a sense of warmth and life they can invoke in the dead of winter.

Betula (Birch):  Betula nigra (River Birch) is probably the most common.  There are several varieties of the species including ‘heritage’.  All have the indicative papery tan exfoliating bark.  They also are usually multi-trunked with a few large leaders reaching for the warmth of the sun and small horizontal branches wisping out from the sides . The vertical structure of the trunk makes it move in the wind and provides a nice contrast to the broad, heavy and  horizontal branching of  Spruce and Pine.  My favorite Birch is actually Betula populfolia ‘Whitespire” (Japanese Whitespire Birch).  It is a white or “paper” barked variety that has proven to be borer resistant.  The parent plant is now almost seventy-years old and remains borer free.

Cornus sericea (Red Twig Dogwood):  This is one of the few shrubs with colorful bark in the winter.  It is also native to much of the United States.  This plant has a bright red twig in winter that can be seen from a distance but isn’t overpowering.  The vertical branching habit makes it feel more like a grass or thicket plant than a shrub, but the fullness makes it work well for a border or foundation plant.  The plants are a lush green in summer with a nice white flower and prolific white berries birds love.  Along with this you must include Cornus alba (Variegated Red Twig Dogwood).  It is very similar to Conus sericea, except it has a variegated leaf.  This species can be prone to anthracnose but the variety Cornus alba “Ivory Halo” seems to be disease resistant, and keeps a more compact form than other varieties.

Hydrangea quercifolia (Oakleaf Hydrangea), and Hydrangea anomala var. petiolaris (Climbing Hydrangea):  Both of these plants have a birch like bark that is exquisite in winter.  The Oakleaf Hydrangea looks great against evergreens or lawns, and another interesting feature is that if you leave the flowers on they will dry in place all winter.  This almost makes it look like it is in bloom.  Climbing Hydrangea is wonderful on a fence, and especially brick walls.  The bark really pops out against brick.  It also has a very fibrous attaching root that give it an almost Gothic feel compared to other vines.  It is also a self attaching vine with makes it even nicer.

Physocarpus opulifolius (Ninebark):  There are two predominate varieties of this plant ‘Diablo’, a purple leaved variety, and ‘Dart’s Gold’a yellowish leaved variety.  Both have a Birch like texture in winter.  If left alone they grow very vertical and develop a thick trunk like structure.  They seem to max out around six feet in height and four feet in width.  This makes them great to tuck behind low growing evergreens and if left natural will look almost like a very small Birch.  Ninebarks are extremely hardy, fairly fast growing, and drought tolerant.

Acer palmatum ‘Sangu Kaku’ (Coral Bark Maple):  This plant his a vivid pinkish coral bark in winter.  It can almost take on an orangish tone.  The tree itself is very delicate and rarely exceeds twelve feet in height.  It has a ferny maple leaf and wispy texture.  It does not develop the distinguished branching habit that other Japanese Maples do, so it does look good as a stand alone specimen.  However, it is fantastic tucked into evergreens or against a foundation.  The only downfall to this plant is that it is prone to winter kill.  Winter watering will cut down on this, but expect it to develop some dead wood in winter that will need to be removed in the spring.

Lagerstoemia indica (Crepe Myrtle):  There are dozens of varieties of this plant in production.  It comes in all sorts of colors and sizes.  The trunks are usually clumped and have a blotchy exfoliating bark, rather than papery bark like a birch.  Many people think of them as trashy because they drop flowers and seed pods constantly and sucker which makes them require pruning to keep nice trunks.  Regardless, with all of that, it sure looks good most of the time and especially with its late summer bloom and winter bark.  Both features shine at times when other plants are lackluster.  On top of that it can survive the abuse of just about any parking lot in the south.

Acer griseum (Paper Bark Maple):  This is a very underused and overlooked tree.  It averages about 25-30 feet in height, so it can be used for shade on a patio, a specimen in the lawn without killing out the grass, or as an ornamental in a foundation planting.  It is not overly showy.  It doesn’t have an amazing flower or incredible fall color, but it is classy.  The fall color is nice, and the foliage is very clean and green in the summer, but this plant is sought for the bark.  It is a favorite of collectors.  Sometimes I compare plant collectors to book collectors.  If I were to compare it to a book you just had to have on your shelf it would be Catcher in The Rye.  It is not a huge tree, but does she rextremely well written, reliable as a recommendation, full of inspiration and bound to create memories.

Platanus x acerifolia (London Plane Tree) and Platanus occidentalis (American Sycamore):  These are two of the great majestic trees of urban parks everywhere.  They are messy, and drop limbs, leaves, and seeds all of the time, but the mess is worth it.  They are extremely hardy, pollution and drought tolerant, and capable of living in swamps.  There is not much this plant can’t take, but what it gives is irreplaceable.  The bark of the London Planetree exfoliates on the lower portions of the trunk.  The American Sycamore is reversed and exfoliates on the upper trunk and branches.  Both create very tall and open canopies making them ideal for street trees.  As their branches cross the road they create the feeling of a nave.  Given the space of a park, where they can be 100 feet from the next tree, they can form a cathedral unto themselves with branches hanging all the way to the ground 60-80′ wide.  When it comes to habit, they can rival the grandest of any Oak, but what makes them stand our is that glorious white of the bark exploding in winter.

I am sure I have left out plenty of others, like some of the Poplars, Tree Lilac, Ironwood, and countless others.  After all, I need to leave something for later.  I am already craving the cold walks amongst the Sycamores in the valley through the thick fog of winter, and winter isn’t even here yet.  I need to leave something for January when we are really sick of winter and dreaming of spring.  Hopefully these will just give you some motivation and help you think outside of the box of the evergreen hedge.  There are lots of options for winter interest when it comes to evergreens and even grasses, but when it comes to design, working with bark requires a subtlety the invokes class.  Most importantly since barks encase the heart of the tree they also exude the warmth of their essence, something we are all about to need.

Of course, all of the trees and shrubs profiled in this post may be found in Botany Buddy’s Tree and Shrub Finder for the iPhone and iPod Touch.

It’s that time of year again.  I’ve cleaned out the tube bird feeders, hung a couple new suet feeders, and I have already had on ripped down by the bear.  I always like to wait until winter is really coming to start feeding.  Primarily because I like to let the birds “Free Range” on wild flower seeds and the summer fruits and berries in the garden.  I like the thought of them helping with the natural cycle of scarifying and dispersing the seeds the way nature intended.  I also like not having the bears visit everyday, especially with my daughter playing outside by herself all summer.  This is a luxury we have living on a rural mountainside that we didn’t have on an urban street corner.  Not that the bears are the threat that some of our neighbors were.  They are more akin to urban raccoons that scavenge their way around on garbage day and pilfer your bird feeders.

Being in a natural setting is a blessing in so many ways, but one of the greatest is the flora for the fauna that already exists naturally. There are hoards of native shrubs that adorn our woods and one of the reasons is that the birds love them so much and help to spread their seed.  This time of year really makes me appreciate where we are, but it also reminds me of our urban garden where we worked to bring native varieties into the garden to bring the birds with them.  One of our prouder moments was when are daughter chose “peepepper” as one of her first words.  He was the first neighbor we got to know on the mountain.  He lived in the four story highrise in the woods next door that largely resembles a dead white pine.  Of course his name eventually evolved to woodpecker, and now she boast a better knowledge of the neighbirds than myself.  Of course this started with books, but my wife’s iBird app has helped as well.

So as I see the return of the flocks, I have been wanting to spread the joy of the season and share a list of plants that would help bring some good neighbirds to you.  I am going to limit this list to natives that transfer well to an urban setting.  However, there are plenty of hybrids and commercial varieties that do the job too.  I thought I would start here because I like to save those varieties for places where natives just won’t grow.  Going native first is one of the first rules of sustainability.  What I have chosen are the five palnt families (Genus) with the widest selection of bird friendly varieties I could find.  This is by no means an exhaustive list, but it should give you a great place to start with your plant and bird searches. 

Pinus (Pine):  There are dozens of native pines that make great trees for birds.  Pinus Strobus (Eastern White Pine) is the most commonly planted in the United States, but for smaller varieties in residential gardens some other native options include Pinus aristata (Bristlecone Pine), Pinus banksiana (Jack Pine),  Pinus Bugeana (Lacebark Pine), Pinus Resinosa (Red Pine), and Pinus monophylla (Pinyon Pine).  These pines are all more moderate in size than the White Pine, but still maintain a natural feel in a formal landscape.  This makes them ideal for urban or residential situations. 

Pines provide food for birds  in a variety of ways.  The cones of pines open to release as many as 12,000 seeds per pound, usually in winter when the other smaller seeds of wildflowers have been eaten.  The bark also harbors lots of insects that make it a favorite for woodpeckers. As the interior branches shed they provide copious amounts of small twigs and needles to build nests, and their evergreen needles provide protections from the cold winter winds.

Juniperus (Juniper):  Juniperus communis (Common Juniper), Juniperus monosperma (Oneseed Juniper), Juniperus occidentalis (Western Juniper), Juniperus scopularum (Rocky Mountain Juniper) and Juniperus virginiana (Eastern Red Cedar) are the most common native varieties in the continental United States.  Between these five you can find a native Juniper almost anywhere in North America.  All of these varieties have been cultivated into varieties for landscape use that can be safely used without worrying about reseeding invasive offspring.  If seed stock does emerge it will come out as one of the native varieties.  There are some hybridized varieties that could revert to something else, so if trying to stay native stick to cultivated or native varieties only.  

Junipers produce berries throughout summer, winter, and fall that provide a great source of food.  They also have a nice evergreen shell that provides protection from the wind.  Junipers provide great cover from prey. As the growth on the interior of the plant sheds it dries and stays in place becoming extremely prickly.  This makes it less desirable for thin furred animals such opossum and weasels to come after the nests.

Viburnums:  Viburnums are a favorite of landscape designers because they are extremely hardy  They also produce nice flowers, foliage and berries and provide some great fall color.  Some are even evergreen, and the flowers are often extremely fragrant.  However, they are usually somewhat of an unknown to beginning gardeners or casual retail nursery shoppers.  Native species include Viburnum dentatum (Chicago Luster Viburnum), Viburnum prunifolium (Blackhaw Viburnum), Viburnum rufidulum (Rusty Blackhaw Viburnum), and Viburnum trilobum (American Cranberry Viburnum),  All of these plants have abundant flowers and berries and can be kept as large shrubs or small trees in any landscape.  The birds love them for the berries and their height is achieved with fairly small horizontal branches that are great for perching but don’t hold the weight of predators making them a nice place for birds to hang out.  There are also many cultivated and hybridized non-native varieties that are not invasive.  If for some reason a native option doesn’t work for you, I would not hesitate to explore those options.

Cornus (Dogwood):  Everyone thinks of Dogwoods as the spring flowering tree, however they also come in some naturalizing and shrub forms as well.  Cornus florida (Flowering Dogwood) is a sentimental favorite for gardeners with the pink and white flowers at Easterand red berries in the fall.  However Cornus racemosa (Gray Dogwood) makes a great naturalizing thicket of about 12-15 feet and produces a nice white flower in May and June and a waxy white berry birds love.  Other varieties include Cornus alternifolia (Pagoda Dogwood), Cornus drummundii (Rough-leaved Dogwood), Cornus nuttallii (Pacific Dogwood), and Cornus sericea (Red Twig Dogwood).  The Rough-leaved and Red Twig Dogwoods provide a shrub form and the red twigs provide great winter interest.  All of these plants have wonderful landscape value, as well as make great naturalizers.  They all have reliable berries for the birds, provide nesting habitat, and add aesthetic value to add to any garden.

Prunus (Cherry):  The Prunus (Cherry) family covers more than the cherries we eat or the flowering trees we see in spring.  There several shrub forms and not as showy trees that can add subtle accents to the landscape, as well as habitat and fodder for birds.  Prunus virginiana (Chokecherry) comes in several forms and varieties and is a great alternative to some of the hybrid and grafted tree-form varieties.  Prunus caroliniana (Carolina Cherrylaurel) and its Asian counterpart Prunus lauroceasus (Cherry Laurel) make great evergreen shrubs, providing both protection and berries as well as a nice evergreen foliage for the landscape.  Prunuis subhirtella (Weeping cherry) is a nice pink flowering native that drops small berries mid summer. Prunus besseyi (Sand Cherry) is a great naturalizing shrub with small white flowers and black berries that are low enough to provide fodder for foraging birds like pheasant and turkey.  Finally, Prunus americana (Wild Plum) is probably one of the most common fruit bearing trees and can be found in almost all states east of the Rockies.  Of course there are other varieties as well, but as a family, Prunus may provide more food for the birds this continent than any other plant family.

There are countless other plants and plant families that I could include in this list, and look for more to come.  For now, these families provide the most variety in terms of native trees and shrubs to bring in birds, and they adapt well to the urban and residential landscape.  All of these plants look great, when used in the right place at the right time.  But when it comes down to it nothing brings out the beauty of a plant better than when it gets to do what it was born to do….be a part of nature. 

Of course, all of the trees and shrubs profiled in this post may be found in Botany Buddy’s Tree and Shrub Finder for the iPhone and iPod Touch.

Such a big word sustainability is.  Everyone is trying to define it.  Everyone says they can provide it, and most think it is something you create or buy rather than something that you do indefinitely.  For the last five years I worked in sustainable development.  I raced everyday to repair the forest’s edge and to get the wild flowers to grow before some salesman decided “sustainability” didn’t sell.  I fought for the budgets and screamed on behalf of the trees and the workers who protected and cared for them.  Well for something to be sustainable it cannot be a race, or a competition it has to be a collaborative effort from the bottom up.  To use a dirty word, it is community organizing with nature as a full fledged participant.  Sustain is a verb and you can’t turn it into a noun by claiming to give it ability and using it as something to be sold or proffited from.  It is an effort, behavior, and way of life that for it to be successful requires participation of everone involved and recognition of everything involved.  It has to be adaptable and evolutionary just like nature, because if any part of the system changes it impacts the whole.

For the last five years I have spent my life designing landscapes, management plans, and financial plans for “sustainable developments” in the mountains of Western North Carolina, Virginia, and Northern Georgia.  Prior to that I spent fifteen years designing “sustainable” gardens in urban parts of Kansas City.  In both cases the trick was always to design a plan that met the needs and desires of the owners and invoked a management plant that was within their means.  Sustainability is always completely relative to those who have to do the sustaining.  For a plan to be sustainable it has to be so by the owner, because once we have interfered with nature, it can never be sustainable by itself.  By disrupting an environment we assume ownership and have to become stewards. It always felt good to see a plan reach the second and third year, and to see that maintenance drop off.  However, about five years ago I started to see the lifestyles of those clients drop off and what was once sustainable to them, was beginning to be so no more.

I have always said that the difference between a garden and a landscape is that the garden requires a gardener.  A landscape may not require a gardener, but it does require a steward.  This is the paradox of the sustainable landscape.  Once nature is disrupted it can no longer be sustainable (self-sustaining) in the truest sense.  It has to be sustained unless it can be returned to the natural state.  Once you have destroyed the natural cycles, nature can never completely return to what it was.  All we can do is create a new eco-system, and help it get to where it can thrive on its own.  Hopefully we can do it in a way that won’t disrupt the lifecycle of surrounding ecosystems and set it in another wrong course.  The bottom line in all of this is once we have broken it we own it.  We suddenly have to maintain it or repair it in a way that it can maintian itself.  Suddenly sustainability is no longer about sustaining the beauty around us, but rather a race to stop the damage we have done.  Once the decision is made and the damage is done all of the sudden sustainability or more precise, sustaining starts and the cycle set in motion may never end.

In reality if we weren’t doing things that weren’t sustainable, we wouldn’t have a need for sustainability.  So rather than start this vicious cycle, why don’t we start with conservation and protection.  If there is any lesson we should all know as people it is that we are not good at creating sustainable systems for ourselves.  Be it justice, economics, agriculture health care or common respect for each other as human beings, we don’t have a great track record at doing this.  So what makes us think we would be better at sustaining nature than it would itself.  I have been ranting a lot lately about having to know nature to love it.  That it because understanding is where sustainability starts.  Rather than everyone running around claiming to have the right answers, maybe we need to start with just trying to gain a better understanding of the world around us.  Maybe then we will stop creating environments that need sustained and start loving what we have been given for what it is.

It was another beautiful fall morning in the Southern Appalachians, and as I was driving my daughter to school I couldn’t help but be overwhelmed by the clouds in the valleys, the orange hue of fall on the mountains and the vivid colors that were taking over the roadsides.   Escaping in all of natures beauty was perfect for taking my mind off the Radio Disney that was poisoning my ears.  However, just as the Radio Disney was creeping in and squeezing my brain like a vice, those colors on the roadsides did as well.  All of the sudden I realized I was missing the beautiful tones of the White Oaks and Sourwoods against the Hemlocks for the bright red of the Burning Bush against the Honesuckle and Maiden Grass.  As for that beautiful American Holly, I couldn’t even tell what it was for the Wisteria and English Ivy that had taken it over.  By the time I was headed back to the house, what started out as a beautiful relaxing drive was grinding me just as much as that Radio Disney even though I had put on Abbey Road.

That brings me to this.  It always amazes me how as designers and gardeners we are always looking for the next best thing and failing to recognize and reveal the essence of the environment we are in.  In our desire to make our space more perfect, some of the greatest damage to our environment has been done by some of the greatest minds our industry has known.  Here is Asheville the Oriental Bittersweet, Japanese Wisteria, Tree of Heaven, and English Ivy that are taking over our national parks were all the gifts of Frederick Law Olmstead.  In Kansas City it was Arnold’s Red Honeysuckle that George Kessler brought us with America Beautifulc movement.  All of these people have good intentions, but in todays world we can find the information we need to plant responsibly and still have plenty of great options from a  design standpoint.

There are thousands of invasive plants out there, both exotic and native that when taken out of their native habitat can do incredible harm to the environment.  This list is limited to the ten that I see most commonly used and pushed by the horticulture industry.  These are plants that are known to be doing damage to our native habitat and continue to be sold every day.  Why do they do it?  Because of demand from customers (hobbiests and professionals) that don’t know better, existing inventories (that keep getting replenished) and the ease of growing these plant in production and in one’s yard.  When I set out to create Botany Buddy one of my goals was to get this information out, and not only make it accessible, but make available in your pocket at any time.  This list is a fraction of the information consumers need but these plants account for a huge amount of the damage being done.

Ten Commonly Planted Invasive Woody Plants

Burning Bush / Euonymous alatus  This is one of the most popular fall color shrubs in production.  It’s vivid red fall color gives it the name.  It is tolerant of drought, ignorant pruning with gas shears extreme cold and keeps on growing.  As a result it has become a favorite in commercial landscapes and roadside plantings.  In zones 6 and up, the little red berry it gets is extremely viable and is spread by the birds that eat it.  Typically a simple hedge planting in the wrong location can spread to a radius of one mile within ten years.  The native plants they displace include Mountain Laurel, Rhododendron, and Hydrangea.  Which would you rather have?

Bradford Pear / Pyrus calleryana  I can remember when this plant came out in the 80’s and was marketed as “America’s Most Poplular Tree” for the fall color, spring flower, nice tight shape, hardiness, and its fruitlessness.  Besides being prone to ice and wind damage due to that “desireable” branching habit, this tree turned out to be anything but fruitless.  The small crabapple sized berries are a favorite of birds and so is its branching habit.  As a result these can now be found in pastures and waterways throughout zones 6 and up.  Even worse in waterways they are replacing canopy producing trees and raising water temperatures which hurts species such as the Southern Appalachian Brook Trout.

Japanese Wisteria / Wisteria floribunda  Introduced as a favorite for Japanese gardens, its agreesive vining habit will take over anywhere zone 5 and below if left unattended.  It can reproduce by rooting if the brances touch the ground, and in zones 7 and up has vibable seeds.  It is commonly found in Eastern forests along the Blue Ridge  Parkway at elevations between 2500 and 4000 feet.  The populations are highest around cities and especially the Biltmore Estate.  While the flowers are beautiful with the Dogwoods they can girdle and kill any tree they wrap around.  There is a native variety that is finally making it into production.

Japanese Spirea / Spiraea japonica  ‘Norman’ or ‘Anthony Waterer’ is the variety that is the main culpret as it spreads by root as well as seed.  There are many varieties that are supposedly not invasive.  However, all of them have the ability to revert and spread by seed.  One positive is that it is not a favorite of birds becasue the seed is so small.  It has to fall and touch the ground to germinate so some of those parking lot plantings might not be doing as much damage as we think.  If it does escape.  One single stem of this plant can flower and germinate into a colony ten feet wide two years.  This plant is destroying our native wildflowers throughout the Southeast.

Japanese Barberry / Berberis thunbergii  This plant is most commonly planted at your local McDonalds due to its attractiveness with the golden arches.  It is just an invasive as the chain in zones five and up and is as bad for the environment as their food is for you.  The plant aesthetically is probably as numbing to your palet as their food is to your culinary sophistication.  The beautiful red berry entices the birds like a toy in a Happy Meal entices my child.  The red leaves hypnotize the plant’s buyers from a distance like the arches that can be seen from a mile away.  As a result this plant litters our forests like McDonalds’ wrappers do our cities.

Empress Tree / Paulownia tomentosa This plant is not commony found in nurseries, but it is pushed by many major seed catalogs for its ability to grow ten feet a year.  I would think that would tell you something in itself, but people want instant results and that pretty purple flower in May and June.  The tree has nice leaves and a habit like a Catalpa, but most of the year its appearance is cluttered by the seed pods that will spread anywhere they can find soil and light.  This is one of the few invasive trees that wasn’t brought here for planting.  Instead, before there were packing peanuts there were Paulownia!  Before there was styrofoam the seed pods of this plant were used in wooded crates from Asia as packing peanuts, and the trees can now be found along all of the railways throughout the United States.  Unfortunately one of the first places those rails went was our national parks.

English Ivy/ Hedera helix  What would a formal garden be without it?  It would be a lot more interesting and a lot more sustainable.  It is defnitely time to give this plant a rest.  It should really only be used in the concrete jungle and even then limited.  There are many more intersting alternatives live Pachysandra or an all out perennial bed.  This vine spreads by root and can climb in the forest greatly weakending larger trees if not contained.  When allowed to reach heights of 20 and 30 feet it will often start to seed and spread even more.  I haven’t used this plant in over five years, and to be honest with you, my designs, clients, and environment are far better off for it.

Butterfly Bush / Buddleia davidii  This plant is finally starting to make people’s radar as an invasive.  It is one of those that has exploded in variety and popularity over the last fifteen years.  It is still new enough the effects are just starting to take root.  However, in all zones, if these seed falls into a wetland or moist area and gets temperatures above seventy degrees for over a couple weeks, it will germiante and spread.  It is most commonly a problem in warmer mountain and piedmont areas thought the US where moisture running off the mountains provides just this environment.  The seed is a favorite of finches so they move the seed form the plant to summer wilflower patches that share ideal growing conditions.

Scotch Broom / Cytisus scoparius  This plant is to the West and coastal areas what Japanese Spirea is to the rest of the country.  It has naturalized throughout most of the West Coast.  The low growing bushy habit takes out everything in its way, and it has beautiful flowers and evergreen foliage to boot!  This makes it a favorite of growers.  There are hundreds of varieties in production, and the tollerance to drought and long bloom time make it a favorite of retailers.  As for all those little California and coastal wildflowers look out!  This one is eating them all up.

Norway Maple / Acer platanoides  This is probably the most planted invasive tree, but most unknown to be invasive.  This plant had been quietly taking over Poplar forests for the last hundred years.  Poplar being fast growing, straight  and light is now the most popular trim lumber.  It is often selectively harvested leaving just enough light for the seeds of the Norway Maple to germinate and establish quickly.  With yellow fall color like a Poplar’s, from a distance youwould never know the forest had changed, but the natural progression of the forest has.  As the Poplars get older, weaker ones are supposed to fall and thin over time allowing room for grand Oaks to establish along with the legacy surviors.  However, the  fast wide growing maples stunt the forest progression  making 100 year old forests look like they are only thirty years old.

This is just a start and I could go on forever, but these are the ones that I see go out on trucks every day and find hiking in nature every day.  Some people take it personally against invasives and think of the plants as “Evil” or “Bad”.  A wise 90 year old piano teacher once told me…”A weed is nothing more than a flower in the wrong place at the wrong time.”  What we have to remember is that the weed didn’t put itself there.  Either we did, or we created the conditions for it to get there.  There is no greater pervention to the spread of invasive plants than knowledge and education, and both of those are far cheaper than trying to repair the damage that they do.

All of the plants in this profile can be found in Botany Buddy’s Tree and Shrub Finder, along with more photos and information including the native habitats, native ranges, and  cutural information.  Botany Buddy currently profiles 1300 trees and shrubs and our library is constantly growing to bring you the valuable information like this that you need.